A bit of 2018, 2019, and 2020, a lot of 2021, and some 2022, that's the harvest of the 2024 Awards (yes: we taste in 2023 and we indicate "Awards 2024" like all the guides that come out in September, except that ours is already published in July!) Let's not lie to ourselves, 2021 was not a smooth ride. That being said, despite the vintage difficulties, the tastings carried out in the first half of 2023 brought their share of good surprises. Here is a non-exhaustive sample (the entire list of awards is freely accessible on www.tulipe-rouge), which is not a podium (you can make it yourself on www.tulipe-rouge.com) nor the perennial, but often legitimate listing of the "unbeatable" (always on www.tulipe-rouge.com). It is a list of wineries that marked our tastings and prompt us to talk about them. Happy discovery.
Beaujolais, its kings, and its princes
For those who are a few vintages behind, it would be advisable to turn your taste buds towards one of the most dynamic vineyards in France, starting with its crowned heads: Domaine Louis-Claude Desvignes, Domaine Paul Janin, Château Thivin, Domaine Les Capréoles, Château des Jacques, to name a few of the best, but also towards the new princes of granite, already known to some, but having reached a particularly refined maturity in style and range in the very last vintages: Château du Moulin à Vent, Domaine Raphaël Chopin, Maison le Nid, Domaine Frédéric Berne, Château Bellevue, Domaine de Colette, Domaine des Marrans, Domaine Mee Godard, Maison Piron, Domaine Philippe Viet, Domaine Grégoire Hoppenot, Domaine Pascal Aufranc, to name a few of the best. Finally, if all these names are already familiar to you (all the better!), there are also these domains, more discreet, but just as relevant in their quest for excellence: Domaine Guénaël Jambon, Domaine des Combiers, Domaine des Prévelières, Domaine de La Grosse Pierre, Domaine les Roches Bleues, Domaine Rostaing-Tayard, to name a few of the best.
Bordeaux and its unknown crus
Once is not custom, it is the peripheral Bordeaux, but also the in-between (seas) that we want to highlight. Because Bordeaux is above all these wonderfully constructed and balanced wines, often well priced, which admirably serve the table, but also, and this is new, all moments of conviviality thanks to increasingly eclectic ranges. Château Turcaud is a model of its kind. Renowned for its sauvignon whites (from the best terroirs of Entre-Deux-Mers) aged in the Burgundian style, this AOP Bordeaux domain also expresses its talent in the Crémant and Clairet categories, two wine styles that are in vogue. Château la Peyruche is one to watch closely. Located on the best slopes of the AOP Cadillac-Côtes-de-Bordeaux, this domain run by Charles, David, and their teams, develops an eclectic and well-thought-out range of unquestionable quality. Finally, the jewel of the Côtes, Château Biac has nothing to envy the communal appellations. Backed by a terroir blessed by the gods, this château excels in both red and sweet wines. Take note.
Burgundy, it's still possible
Let's not kid ourselves: Burgundy has become prohibitively expensive, and France is no longer a priority market (like most French wine regions...). However, there are still quality wines at decent prices that honor the region and the wallet of passionate enthusiasts. Domaine du Meix Perthuis, located on 2.5 ha cultivated organically since 2013, produces only one AOP Hautes-Côtes-de-Nuits, declined in only two cuvées. Serious, concentrated, and well-raised pinots at a fair price. Deux Roches - Collovray Terrier, born from the union of two families represented today by Julien Collovray and Pierre-Alexis Terrier. Frank, fresh, and pulpy whites declined in named places, including les-terres-noires and les-crays. The talented Pacaud brothers whose range in AOP Saint-Véran effortlessly rivals the prestigious crus of the Mâconnais, all at a decent price. In more fashionable appellations, let's mention Domaine Catherine et Claude Maréchal, well known to amateur winemakers who love serious and "accessible" Burgundies. From simple Bourgogne to Pommard via Savigny, everything is good, and particularly in 2021, where precisely everything was not good... Surprisingly, Domaine JA Ferret, whose prices have not escaped the general increase. That being said, the quality of the wines justified this increase, and despite this new positioning, the wines remain attractive if we compare, with equal quality, the alternatives on the Côte d'Or.
Languedoc, in delicacy
We have known for a long time that Languedoc can be delicate without losing power. But it's always the same names that are mentioned, and we know them well. There are others, less known, but just as exciting, here they are. Clos Constantin, which in 2021 releases a little marvel of delicacy that is only half surprising, it is the trademark of the domain. More confidential, Les Chemins de Carabote in AOP Terrasses du Larzac, a subtle mix of power and suavity with attractive perfumes. We love it. Domaine Les Combes Cachées in AOP Minervois, which delights whatever the cuvée, whatever the color, with a precision and a sense of measure that we would like to see more often in the region. Finally, Le Chemin des Rêves in AOP Pic Saint Loup, with its aptly named la-soie, everything is said. To discover if you don't already know.
Roussillon, the freshness of shale?
If you read LTR regularly, you know that we are very cautious when there is an association of ideas without real scientific rigor to support it. That being said, we bow to this mysterious freshness that characterizes wines born on shale... Starting with the very fit Mas Amiel and its Natural range, which finds in the 2022 vintage a certain completion in style and construction. We cannot talk about Roussillon without making a detour by Banyuls and the Domaine de la Rectorie. Fortified wines should be classified as UNESCO World Heritage, and those from Banyuls in particular.
Provence, if you look, you will find
We said a lot in our last newsletter, but we prefer to repeat it. Provence is full of good wines. You just have to want to stick your nose in it. Let's start with a first nugget: Domaine Alône. Two vintages on the counter of this very young domain, but 23 for the winemaker Christian Ott (this name must mean something to you, right?). A must-discover. A second nugget: Mas de Cadenet. Not well known enough. It must be said that for the Négrels, it is discretion and modesty above all. Don't be fooled, it excels in all three colors and has been for 30 years (with old vintages to support). A third nugget, nestled in the heart of Mayons. If you hear the cicadas and meet people with the accent of Manon des sources, you are not far: Domaine Borrely Martin, embodied by Jacques Martin who will explain to you, with the enthusiasm of a newcomer, how to make great reds in Provence...
Alsace and Savoie, welcome!
For LTR, the Alsace region has just been activated. Which did not prevent us from making discoveries! We therefore present to you the Domaine Étienne Simonis, located on 7 ha and managed by Katia and Étienne Simonis, heirs to a family tradition dating back to the 17th century. The wines are precise and at the same time on edge, deploying complexity and minerality (understand a certain salinity). The Riesling, original and fragrant, unfurls a long, fresh sap as it should, while the Pinot Gris du Clos des Chats is dynamic and airy, far from the caricatures often associated with the grape variety.
Same comment for Savoie, newly integrated on LTR. We are delighted to (re)discover the Quénards at this level. Be careful, not just any "Quénard" (there are a lot of them!) : Anne-Sophie and Jean-François Quénard. Yes, Anne-Sophie, who returned to the family estate in 2019 after studying oenology at the excellent Changins university and has been in management since this year. Red, white, sparkling, everything is in good taste and without compromise. A tour de force when you know the difficult but commendable Savoyard grape varieties. To discover or rediscover absolutely!
The Loire Valley, (re)new
The Loire Valley is the Pays Nantais, Anjou-Saumur, Touraine, and the Centre. In other words, it's big, very big. It is therefore difficult to make a selection without disappointing anyone. Let's start with Château de Chaintres. Élisabeth B. de Tigny Mourot, the director, has done a good job since her arrival in 2010. Certified organic and biodynamic, the estate displays a wide range, both coherent and solid, where the reds stand out, not forgetting the more joyful rosés and excellent sparkling wines. The prices are gentle and invite discovery. Terra Vita Vinum has a more ambitious positioning, but justified according to the friendly owners Bénédicte Petit and Luc Briand. A positioning that does not scare us at all during the tasting of the wines: everything is absolutely delicious and deserves the attention of the most demanding amateur. Last but not least, the range is available with and without sulfur, to explore all the facets of these deep and complex wines. Already well known to wine merchants, Claux Delorme is still as deserving. In a style of its own, these wines seduce and don't take themselves too seriously, as evidenced by the very affordable prices. A young estate, located in the heart of Anjou Noir since 2018, Clos Galerne delights us every year with wines that are both powerful and chiseled, playing with evolution to better reveal their origin. Myrtille and Cédric Bourez undoubtedly have this sense of aesthetics that makes wine a drink unlike any other...
The Rhone Valley, always full of resources
Like the Loire vineyard, the immense Rhône Valley is full of good wines. To make our choice, we closed our eyes at the end of the tastings and asked ourselves which estates spontaneously came to mind... No, of course, we first chose the novelty with Domaine Mayard in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, led by the young and talented Arthur Mayard. A beautiful find in a refined and no-nonsense style, stripped-down yet structured. Beautiful work that is also found on the AOP Côtes-du-Rhône. Less young, but just as talented and passionate, Bruno Boisson of Domaine Boisson, whose style's peak we felt coming over the vintages. A mix of delicacy and softness while maintaining structure and depth, the wines in AOP Cairanne and Massif d'Uchaux are real gems at sweet prices that, good year (2020) bad year (2021), have finally found their architecture. Finally, the discreet Domaine de l'Amauve, located in the town of Séguret, was created in 2006 by Christian Vœux (although his family has been in the village since 1789). This newly established winemaker is experienced: cellar master and oenologist at Château Mont-Redon for 25 years, but also director of Château La Nerthe in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Christian Vœux did not take long to find the recipe for Côtes-du-Rhône-Séguret cut with a chisel, combining power and complexity. Everything is successful and in its place, from whites to reds to rosés.
Corsica, there is greatness
Like other vineyards, Corsica has its stars and legends. They have given the Isle of Beauty the viticultural rank it deserves and have also certainly inspired vocations, revived ambitions, and made Corsica a dynamic and modern vineyard. In this regard, Clos Canereccia, taken over in 2010 by Christian Estève, sets an example with skillfully crafted wines. The entire range is highly recommendable. Another example, Domaine Leccia, under the management of Lisandru Leccia, son of Yves Leccia, returned to the estate with his aunt Annette Leccia in 2015. The wines, both white and red, have style. Without frills or artifice, they unfold their texture with elegance and restraint. A must-discover.
The South-West, wine in the veins
So vast and so diverse, the South-West is not lacking in ambassadors: Vignobles Brumont, Château du Cèdre, Clos Triguedina, Domaine du Moulin Pouzy, Domaine Rotier, Clos Thou, etc. But the South-West is not just a handful of iconic estates, it is also a network of young and not so young estates that have decided to follow in the footsteps of their leaders to perpetuate local know-how, often with panache and innovation. Starting with Château Gaudou, Domaine Le Bout du Lieu or Domaine les Roques de Cana in Cahors. In the Bergeracois, keep an eye on Château La Ressaudie and the two Clos, Bonnefare and d'Orsignac, to which we gladly add the very young Clos de l'Ange and the reliable Château Moulin Caresse, Château Pique-Sègue and Château Les Farcies du Pech. On the Gaillacois side, the Vignobles Gayrel show nice progress while Domaine Vayssette and Domaine du Moulin remain reliable values. Madiran and the unavoidable Clos Basté is joined by Château de Perron and Château Barréjat. Finally, Domaine du Mioula honors the local Mansois (the local Fer Servadou) in the Marcillac region.