Served at the table of the kings of France of the Capetian dynasty since the 13th century, as well as at the court of the popes in Avignon, the wines of the vineyard of Saint-Etienne as well as of the lands of the Dukes of Bourbon and the Counts of Forez was among the most renowned of the Kingdom. Nestled in the heart of the Massif Central, between the cities of Lyon, Clermont-Ferrand and Saint-Étienne, this vineyard was one of the greatest in the Kingdom of France.
At that time, the river Allier greatly facilitated commercial exchanges with Paris, but in the 19th century the arrival of the railroad opened the capital to competition and the phylloxera crisis reduced the production of the vineyard to nothing, forcing the winegrowers to diversify. From 8000 hectares in the 13th century, there are only 1315 hectares left today: what was a large vineyard in France is now one of the smallest, to the point of disappearing from some wine maps!
However, things have been changing in recent years. The number of hectares planted is increasing again and the most famous estates are appearing – not too late - on the menus of prestigious restaurants. With this in mind, a group of winegrowers have been mobilizing around a common project to promote the value of these terroirs and unite their strength. An association was created in 2019, "La Loire Volcanique" (The Volcanic Loire), bringing together 43 winegrowers from the Auvergne, Forez, Roannais and Saint-Pourçain wine regions. Its goal is to promote their wines and to include all winegrowers who wish to participate in the recognition of the wines of the Massif Central... where the Loire River begins.
This approach, original and federative, is not without foundation. Like centuries-old architraves, history and geomorphology have shaped the wine landscapes of the Volcanic Loire. Divided into 4 AOP (Côte Roannaise, Côte du Forez, Côte d'Auvergne and Saint-Pourçain), located between 200 and 600 m of altitude, the vineyards benefit from a semi-continental climate due in part to the Foehn effect produced by the Puys mountains chain. The soils are generally between granite and basalt, even if locally the nuances are more subtle. As far as grape varieties are concerned, Gamays are at home here and represent 80% of the vineyard. Yes, gamay with “s”, because there are several of them: the Gamay noir with white juice (the one from Beaujolais), the Gamay Saint-Romain and the Gamay d'Auvergne. For the remaining 20%, count on the Tressallier (or Sacy) which does well and the Pinot Noir with sometimes spectacular results. Then come Chardonnay, Syrah, Viognier, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Aligoté, Gewurztraminer, Roussanne, often used in the production of original IGP wines (Urfé or Val de Loire).
On the tasting side, there is no lack of good finds. There are even some jewels that deserve their place in the cellars of demanding wine lovers. The more knowledgeable will recognize a few names that are already well known.
As far as the style of the wines is concerned, if we risk the exercise, we can say that they are often animated by a vivacity superior to their Beaujolais cousins, gaining in the process a finesse in the flavors as well as in the smells: rather flowers and red fruits than pepper and black fruits in the flavours, we may reproach them, with a few exceptions, for a lack of power compared to the tenors of the Rhône. But this criticism is quickly forgotten if we let ourselves be seduced by the delicacy and the balance that characterize most of the wines tasted. In short, these are wines that are often pleasant, sometimes remarkable, whose the diversity of prices call for discovery. Here is the result of our tasting in the heart of the Côtes Roannaises, in Renaison. Enjoy your reading.
Les blancs
Saint-Pourçain
Domaine Grosbot-Barbara
Denis Barbara
Cuvée : SAS Prince Charles-Henri de Lobkowicz – Saint-Pourçain 2021 - 20 €
Yellow fruits, well aged in oak, refreshing, wait for two years. Good wine.
Clos de Breuilly
William Tay-Pamart et Ambroise Demonceaux
Cuvée : Tressallier – Vin de France 2021 - 24 €
Delicate texture, harmonious, slightly buttery, stylish. Nice wine
Domaine des Bérioles
Jean Teissèdre, Sophie et Jérôme Roux
Cuvée : Autochtone Tressallier – Vin de France 2020 - 29,50 €
Dense, fine, honeysuckle and citrus, persistent and salty. Beautiful wine.
Roannais
Domaine Sérol
Carine et Stéphane Sérol
Cuvée : Chenin sur Granite Champtoisé – IGP Urfé 2021 - 17,50 €
Elegant, floral, lemon, loose and chalky on the finish. Allure, beautiful wine.
Domaine des Pothiers
Romain Paire
Cuvée : En Paradis, Riesling – IGP Urfé 2021 - 22 €
Seductive, acacia, peach, supple and slightly honeyed. Ready to drink.
Les rouges
Saint-Pourçain
Domaine Les Terres d’Ocre
Florent Barichard, Valérie et Éric Nesson
Cuvée : Les Cailloux, PinotNoir – Saint-Pourçain 2021 - 15 €
Wild strawberry, supple and refreshing, pleasant. Ready to drink.
Clos de Breuilly
William Tay-Pamart et Ambroise Demonceaux
Cuvée : Barnabooth, Pinot Noir, Gamay – Saint-Pourçain 2021 - 24 €
Juicy red fruits, invigorating and fleshy. Very pleasant wine. To drink.
Domaine des Bérioles
Jean Teissèdre, Sophie et Jérôme Roux
Cuvée : La Prugne, Pinot Noir – IGP Val de Loire 2020 - 39 €
Burgundian nose, caressing, ample and consistent, good length. Beautiful wine.
Forez
Cave Verdier Logel
Julie Logel et Maxime Gillier
Cuvée : Rézinet – Côte du Forez 2021 - 10,50 €
Peony and candy, fine and consistent, juicy finish. Expect the magnum.
Cave Verdier Logel
Julie Logel et Maxime Gillier
Cuvée : La Volcanique – Côte du Forez 2021 - 10 €
Fleshy, refreshing, morello cherry, firm, steely finish, good length.
Les Vins de la Madone
Gilles Bonnefoy
Cave : Migmatite, gamay sur granit – Côte du Forez 2021 - 15,50 €
Fine, reductive, violet, dense and structured, long finish. Beautiful wine.
Roannais
Domaine Vial
Philippe et Jean-Marie Vial
Cuvée : Découverte – Côte Roannaise 2022 - 7,80 €
Red fruits, round, gorgeous and juicy on the finish. Very pleasant.
Philippe et Jean-Marie Vial
Cuvée : Bouthéran – Côte Roannaise 2022 - 8 €
Fleshy, balanced, good length, firm tannins. Well done.
Domaine de Mayençat
Florent Thinon
Cuvée : Le Rouge 2021 - 10,50 €
Pulpy, suave and delicate. Stylish and fruity. Easy to drink.
Domaine de Mayençat
Florent Thinon
Cuvée : Mayençat 2021 - 14,50 €
Light-body but delicate, nice grain of tannin. Good texture. Good wine.
Domaine des Pothiers
Romain Paire
Cuvée : Diogène – Côte Roannaise 2021 - 35 €
Fig, reductive, dense and tonic, with good length. Good wine.
Domaine des Pothiers
Romain Paire
Cuvée L’Intégrale – Côte Roannaise 2021 - 24 €
Floral, almost Pinot-like, concentrated, precise, firm finish. Beautiful wine.
Domaine Sérol
Carine et Stéphane Sérol
Cuvée : Perdrizière – Côte Roannaise 2021 - 22 €
Fine, long, pure and structured, good length. Beautiful wine.
Domaine Sérol
Carine et Stéphane Sérol
Cuvée : Chez Muron (cœur de parcelle des Millérands) – Côte Roannaise 2021 - 32 €
Menthol, kirsch, complex, unctuous, long finish, limestone. Beautiful wine.