To be reborn, one must first have died. This is the primary meaning of the word "renaissance." When capitalized, however, Renaissance takes on a different significance, evoking the great historical period spanning the 14th to 17th centuries. Born in Italy, it symbolizes a revival of literature, philosophy, and the arts of Greco-Roman Antiquity. It was accompanied by shifts in worldviews, religious reforms, new communication technologies (such as the printing press), groundbreaking discoveries (notably perspective), and an economic dynamism fueled by technical innovations—many of which we shall revisit.
The Renaissance is also the subject of Guillaume Logé’s latest book, Renaissance Sauvage. In this work, the author, a doctor of aesthetics, history, and art theory, offers a fascinating reflection on our era. Through a bold analogy with the Quattrocento Renaissance, he seeks to identify the early stirrings of a new, "wild" Renaissance manifesting itself in the arts. At the heart of this Renaissance, man is no longer the master and possessor of a passive and purposeless nature; rather, he exists not "in nature," but "through nature." Acknowledging the latest scientific, political, environmental, and societal revolutions, humanity is redefining its existence by integrating an awareness of the world around it.
The world of wine is no exception to this Renaissance. Never before has environmental consciousness been so pervasive. Never has technical knowledge undergone such paradigm shifts. And never, perhaps, have wine styles been so uncertain and exploratory.
This transformation is sweeping through vineyards across France. Winemakers and estates are questioning which wines to produce, how to communicate, and how to sell. They are torn between a return to "the Antique" and unbridled innovation. For a Renaissance to occur, there must first be a "pre-Renaissance"—a tension that manifests as an awareness of humanity’s new position in the world. This tension is not endured but experienced. It slowly sediments, preparing the ground for a reconciliation between past traditions and future aspirations. Ancient techniques like provignage are being reexamined by agronomists; oenology is embracing microbiology; and organic viticulture is adapting to modern economic constraints. The vinitor—faber, sapiens, and economicus—is striving for consensus, though not without inevitable contradictions.
Like the studiolos, the Renaissance precursors of curiosity cabinets, vineyards are becoming spaces of experimentation. There is an emerging understanding—or at least an intuition—that all elements must work together. The winemaker is no longer merely faber, sapiens, or economicus; he is vitor universale—the universal vintner. It is no longer enough to read Viti or Réussir Vignes; one must also read Marc-André Sélosse and Masanobu Fukuoka.
Many of us are experiencing this pre-Renaissance of viticulture firsthand. Who has not heard of "sulfur-free" wines, massale selection, biodynamics, indigenous yeasts, or natural wines—only to later realize that a touch of sulfur is not necessarily a flaw, that a multiclonal selection is not without merit, that viticulture is complex, and that cellar yeasts gradually colonize the vineyard itself? Not all wine regions are "reborn" at the same pace. The larger and more diverse a region, the longer the changes take to materialize. And when they do, it is often within the great estates first, where resources and expertise are more advanced.
In this regard, Bordeaux is a striking example of a late Renaissance. We have already dedicated two comprehensive articles to this subject (GCC en 1855 millésimes 2020 et 2021 : les enseignements and Primeurs 2023, genèse d’une révolution tardive). Now, with the recently tasted 2022 vintage, this long-awaited Renaissance is confirmed.
Let us be clear: a château does not fundamentally alter its worldview and the style of its wines simply by converting to organic practices, incorporating dolia into its cellar, or adopting biocontrol techniques. These indicators of pre-Renaissance are well known and widely applied. What truly marks the Renaissance of Bordeaux’s vineyards—at least for the reds—is the 2022 vintage, or more precisely, the way in which 2022 was conceived. Bordeaux could have produced another "2010"—a behemoth breaking analytical records, built for eternity, yet delivering wines today that are far more inconsistent than one might expect. But that did not happen.
The 2022 vintage was crafted with restraint, precision, and style. This is the true Renaissance of Bordeaux: the emergence of a style that is no longer merely oenological or economic, but also—and above all—faber. The châteaux have picked up their brushes once more, rediscovered their craft, reawakened their aesthetic sensibilities, explored new techniques, and sought to engage the consumer. Among consultants, there is a renewed playfulness with vegetal expression (Oenoteam), a return to experimenting with whole clusters (Derenoncourt), a new way to blending (Rolland) and a fresh approach to press-wine use (Boissenot). The results are frequently compelling. Meanwhile, the white wine sector is not lagging behind, offering an increasing number of bottles with a revitalized style. And let us not forget the immense efforts undertaken in Sauternes—initiated well before 2022. Who could have imagined such wines just a few years ago? What a vintage!
At a time when wine is facing a major crisis, France needs Bordeaux. Whether we like it or not, this region remains the essential barometer of our viticulture worldwide. When Bordeaux is struggling, it’s the entire French vineyard that suffers. That’s why the renaissance of French wine must go through Bordeaux. With this "Bordeaux 2022" feature, divided into several newsletters (starting with a magnificent vertical tasting of Château Brane-Cantenac!), we hope to convince you to once again welcome a few bottles of Bordeaux and great Sauternes into your "studiolos." We are certain you will not be disappointed.
This renaissance is also an opportunity to remind ourselves that wine is a symbol of togetherness, or more precisely, of being reborn together. At a time when our people are becoming divided, it remains the only "product" still capable of bringing together diverse opinions. To that end, we give the floor to our Franco-American colleague Christian Holthausen. Read it. It’s important. Finally, since no one serves themselves better than themselves, I humbly submit to your kindness the reading of my latest book Le Temps d’un Vin (only in French), published by L’Harmattan. Once again, it’s about rebirth, through a critique of modern wine. Some things never change. Happy reading.
Olivier Borneuf