In 1962, Thomas Kuhn wrote "The Structure of Scientific Revolutions." The term "paradigm" is central to the book, not to describe any model, but to designate a body of principles and methods shared by a scientific community; a sort of epistemic model that holds authority and unites researchers for a certain period, until the next "scientific revolution." Thomas Kuhn's work represents a radical departure from the predominant way of writing the history of science in the 1950s, which was based on the continuous evolution of science through the accumulation of knowledge according to the scientific method, that is, through individual discoveries. Inspired by Alexandre Koyré, Kuhn's historiography describes the formation, at a given time, of a new scientific conception breaking away from the previous one, relying not on the individual, but on a group of intergenerational scientists influenced by a world engendering a new scientific revolution.
The French vineyard has experienced scientific revolutions, or more precisely oenological ones. Among the most universally recognized are fermentation, hygiene, and more recently, microbiology. Some vineyards were pioneers in this field. Others lagged behind. As early as the 1950s, Bordeaux stood at the forefront, notably with Jean Ribéreau-Gayon and especially Émile Peynaud, nicknamed "the father of modern oenology." Then, knowledge spread, public research institutions were created, private laboratories were established, and the vineyard quickly benefited from production models replicable on all scales.
In the following decades, oenology would gain popularity, perhaps a bit too much. Sacrificing its epistemological limits on the altar of efficiency, it served the cause of wines adapted to the market without much concern for a world in motion, yet a generator of revolutionary artifices in the scientific world. Becoming technoscience despite itself, oenology followed the curve of success without perceiving the fertile signals of a new emerging paradigm. To be fair, some did perceive them. Jules Chauvet, for example. A négociant-chemist based in Beaujolais, he worked on subjects that are now current topics. But the majority, particularly Bordeaux, settled into a "comfort" of practices and innovations that paid little attention to the changes underway. Indeed, it is difficult to enter into a revolution when everything is going well. And in Bordeaux, at that time, everything was going quite well.
From 1980 to 2000, societal changes were at work and influenced the field of values0 of our compatriots. These changes operated particularly in family, work, politics, economy, religion, and social spheres. Let us quickly detail these reservoirs of influence starting from the 1980s, relying on the European Values Study1 (begun in 1981 and spread over 30 years), in order to understand the situation of Bordeaux at that time, that of a wine already lagging behind, contrary to appearances and the benevolent media discourses of the time. Following this brief analysis, it will be time to revisit the 2023 vintage and the values it conveys to reconcile our readers with a region once again in tune with the times.
Let's begin with the family. It is a major transmitter of values in our societies, which, starting from the 1980s, progressively lost its intergenerational influence: an increase in divorces, increasingly rare family meals, undermined parental authority, new educational systems, the geographical dispersion of the family nucleus, liberalization of customs, etc. It is, however, where the so-called "dad's wine"2 (an unfortunate nickname given to Bordeaux wine) is most often introduced to future generations, discussed, and debated, making its way into the lives of young adults. Unfortunately, one or even two generations will grow up without Bordeaux, or worse, with the image of a wine that does not belong to their world, the one they discover far from their home.
In terms of work, we need to distinguish between two value systems: extrinsic (salary, hours, permanent contracts, holidays, etc.) and intrinsic (the societal and health impact of one's work, company cooperation, territorial anchoring, etc.). While the era favored permanent contracts and career plans via prestigious schools, the seeds of an intrinsic relationship with work were beginning to germinate. And what did Bordeaux symbolize then? Individual success, career plans, and prestigious schools, while at the same time, as early as the 1960s, iconoclastic winemakers emerged here and there, offering a different perspective on wine and its relationship to the world. Those who were considered marginal or idealistic at the time would become, within a few decades, today's references for young enthusiasts captivated by a discourse that resonates with them.
Politics bears its share of responsibilities in shaping perceptions of the world. From the 1960s and even more in the following decades, it showed an increasing inability to define aspirations; it was no longer, so to speak, the place for oenological determinations: there was no longer any need to drink Bordeaux to vote right! Does this seem a bit trivial? Yet today, one only needs to stroll around business districts to observe these changes and the challenges faced by châteaux in reclaiming these traditionally Bordeaux markets.
Like work, the economy, as a value, is divided into two factors: sociotropic and egotropic. The former includes social issues, unemployment rates, inequalities, while the latter refers to individual education, personal salary, years of study, etc. Which economic value did Bordeaux symbolize then? You guessed it: egotropic! That is, capital, or if you prefer, the prestige of the Bordeaux brand embodied by the professional success of its owners and the CVs of its estate managers, instead of the social values so prevalent in the agricultural world represented, rightly or not, by the winemaker, his vineyard staff, and sometimes even certain consultants with a more "close-to-the-ground" profile—some of whom would become the future stars of the vineyard.
Like the family, religion has lost its power of influence through a secularization that began in the mid-18th century but has been accelerating since the 1990s. Like the family, this phenomenon leads to a liberalization of morals and behaviors, with, as a corollary, a return to communitarianism and a compensatory religiosity.3 Concretely: one cannot love Bordeaux and another type of wine with different values. One must choose sides. It is no longer just about wine but something emotional that must satisfy a religious need other than that carried by secularized traditional religions. Does this seem convoluted? Let's reflect: isn't Bordeaux the only place where the name of a consulting oenologist is mentioned on marketing materials? Isn't Bordeaux the only place in France where you find winemakers’ Collections4? Look at the "technical" sheet of a Bordeaux wine and that of a "trendy" wine. You will be surprised by the differences. On one hand, a discourse imbued with scientific rationality highlighting the latest technical investments, on the other, a discourse little or not at all technical, flirting with a sometimes quasi-religious semantics. The Enlightenment fades, and Bordeaux plunges into darkness with the feeling of being criticized for having said it all!
Let's conclude this quick overview of values with the social dimension by focusing on one factor in particular: individualization. In other words, from a commercial perspective, the hyper-personalization of the offer. Let's get to the point: what to think of a wine sold to a négociant and then to a reseller who sells us the wine without us ever having felt the beginning of a privileged relationship with the producer in any way? Even though Bordeaux is now returning to the field to meet its enthusiasts, this structural distance from the market has undeniably left traces in the customer's perception.
These societal changes can leave one feeling perplexed about their influence on the purchasing behavior of both enthusiasts and professionals. Some may find them insignificant or at least trivial, attributing the Bordeaux crisis to overproduction, declining consumption, prices, the media, and the economic crisis as the real culprits. These societal changes are often underestimated because the values they convey are like quicksand in which individuals sink without realizing it until it is too late. Bordeaux is beginning to realize this. Too late? Bordeaux is starting to realize it, as it has been making changes for over 20 years (read our article: GCC, deliverables 2020 & 2021 lessons). However, these changes, initiated by the earliest pioneers two decades ago, are actually belated. They create a sense of viticulture that is out of sync, more reactive than proactive. Not only does Bordeaux need to catch up (which is about to happen), but it must also develop a forward-looking vision for a wine at the cutting edge, not of innovation, but of anticipation, for the wine of tomorrow, to regain its status as the beacon of French viticulture.5
What does 2023 teach us in this regard? Well, that the lag is being caught up or is about to be in all areas. Firstly, the wines. Beyond the overall remarkable quality, the paradigmatic idea that Bordeaux has been able to adapt its technical pathways to the vintage rather than imposing its technical prowess on Nature's whims. The idea that an oenological style is not what the enthusiast calls the expression of terroir, with all the vagueness that this catch-all word conveys. Finally, the idea that the appellation of origin can no longer alone define the aesthetic canon of its wines. Some châteaux have understood this for a long time. It was still necessary for a majority to join these pioneers. Among our favorites, Château du Tertre perfectly illustrates this restraint, in line with its potential, resulting in a lighter but so much more precise and refined Margaux. On the right bank, Château Laroque has made the right decisions in the vineyard to achieve mid-palate consistency, avoiding excessive use of wood. The result is a model of precision and elegance. Finally, what can be said of Château Jean Faure and its 65% Cabernet Franc, other than that Saint-Émilion would do well to draw lessons from it for the future. Don't hesitate to delve into our selections. Many wines, at all price points, have intelligently surpassed the formalism of systematic oenology and a restrictive appellation!
Secondly, the "makers," embodied in Bordeaux by some of the winemakers, technical directors, a few consultants, and laboratories.6 It must be recognized that the prevailing message is refreshing and uninhibited. Gone is the wooden language; passion is palpable, and self-criticism is sometimes harsher than our critiques! This is evidenced by this generation of forty-somethings, often having studied agronomy before oenology, with international experience and a sophisticated, uninhibited aesthetic sense. For example, Jean-Michel Laporte's background and experience on the right bank (Château la Conseillante) are undoubtedly behind the new refined and chiseled style of Château Talbot. Let’s also mention all those "young" directors who are revitalizing Sauternais: Slanie Ricard (Myrat), Sandrine Garbay (Guiraud), Lorenzo Pasquini (Yquem), Vincent Labergère (Rayne Vigneau), Aline Baly and Laurier Girardot (Coutet), Miguel Aguirre (Tour Blanche), Guillaume Lefebvre (Doisy Védrines), among others. On the consultant side, let's mention Thomas Duclos, Julien Belle and the Oneoteam, Frédéric Massie, Simon Blanchard and the Derenoncourt team, Mikaël Laizet, Julien Viau and the Rolland Associates team, Éric Boissenot, Édouard Lambert and the Boissenot Laboratory team. All actively contribute to the renewal of wines with, it seems to us, less systematized, even experimental approaches, but always contemporary. Another notable fact is the desire to embody visions rather than individuals, which seems to us, again, a very current reading of the profession.
Lastly, viticulture, still criticized today despite very encouraging developments. Let us simply recall the facts: 13,900 hectares certified organic in 2021 (the largest vineyard area in France), equivalent to 11.6% of the utilized agricultural area (UAA). In 2020, 1034 wine estates were certified organic. This label alone cannot summarize the region's viticultural developments. Let us simply say that it is a good trend barometer.
At heart, Bordeaux has never been so exciting. With shimmering 2023s, Bordeaux is definitively in tune with the times and proves that it is once again—yes, we do say "once again"—one of the very best vineyards in the world. We look forward to seeing what comes next and sincerely hope that the systemic crisis facing the region will not spell the end for a majority of châteaux already looking ahead to 2024. Happy discovery and happy tasting!
0 - A value is not a trend. It is "invisible" because it evolves much more slowly than opinion or statistics. Therefore, it is much more rooted in behaviors and very little versatile, giving it substantial influence over both the individual and the group.
Olivier Borneuf
1- https://europeanvaluesstudy.eu/methodology-data-documentation/previous-surveys-1981-2008/survey-1981/
2 - Bordeaux has long been the most represented wine on Sunday tables in France.
3 - Religious disposition with a strong affective tendency, without reference to a particular religion, without specific dogmatic content.
4 - Taken from the website www.winemakerscollection.com: "a Winemakers' Collection dares to place the signature of its creator on a wine, a name that will speak more to the consumer than a percentage of cabernet or sauvignon, a face that will give an identity to the juice more surely than the facade of a château." A laudable approach that caricatures itself through the artifices it believes serve it.
5 - Knowing that the domestic market represents 55% of Bordeaux wine outlets, export can be a short- to medium-term solution, but only partially. While some traditional Bordeaux values still resonate in some economically developing countries, where these values are predominant, other factors obviously need to be considered (political regime, war, election, economic crisis, etc.).
6 - We have not sufficiently explored the research work of Bordeaux universities to include them in our discussion.