After Dry January and Sober October in France, I’m proposing Happy November (in English, to fit the mood) to celebrate Beaujolais Nouveau—a symbol, despite itself, of newfound freedom! A positive prelude to the holidays, even though 2024 has been challenging, to say the least. Here’s a recap of this extraordinary year before diving into a tasting of a hundred samples tasted blind at the temple of Beaujolais, located at 210 Boulevard Victor Vermorel, also known as Inter Beaujolais. Finally, we’ll conclude with an analysis of this new primeur campaign. Enjoy reading!
As he does every year, Bertrand Chatelet, director of SICAREX (the research institute for viticulture and oenology in Beaujolais), provides us with his factual summary of the vintage. He writes: "This year, concerns about the upcoming vinification process were heightened due to the difficult growing season and patchy conditions in the vineyards. With a slow final ripening period, decisions about harvest dates, crucial for quality, were ultimately made with confidence. The first juices have been reassuring, showing good aromatic expression with a prominent fruitiness and fresh taste. Extended macerations have helped to build soft structures and complementary pigments to ensure vibrant colors for the 2024 vintage. This vintage will produce fresh and light gamays, in line with consumer expectations."
Reading between the lines, it’s clear that success wasn’t guaranteed. And for good reason: while 2024 has set new global heat records, in the Beaujolais vineyards, it was constant, torrential rain throughout the growing season. A physical and mental trial for all Beaujolais producers! In the end, the Nouveau has emerged, and the number of samples presented speaks to the region’s deep connection to this convivial event (and we couldn’t be happier!). A total of 119 samples, including a few rosés, is a lot for a single, ephemeral wine from a challenging vintage! Looking at the numbers, it’s easy to see why this connection endures: Nouveau still accounts for over 11% of Beaujolais sales in 2023 (almost 10 million!). That’s no small feat. Given the year’s challenges, it’s fair to wonder about the overall quality of this tasting. Unlike previous years, it took some searching to find good “fresh and light” nouveaux, well-aligned with consumer expectations, as Bertrand Chatelet aptly put it.
There are two phases to approach this tasting well. The first is to identify the effects of a nightmare year on the wines, both organoleptically and structurally. The second is to learn from those who managed to produce a wonderful nouveau we’ll enjoy sharing with friends. Let’s say it one more time: producers in 2024 are heroes. Producing wine, however it may be criticized, under such conditions is an achievement in itself. But in the end, choices must be made. This year, unlike previous ones, there are both high and low points, starting with wine purity. It’s the first time we’ve encountered so many off-flavors in the wines. Blame it on the year—these off-flavors are certainly not due to winemaker negligence or lack of professionalism. No, the year was truly awful. That’s the reality. Sparing you the details, let’s sum it up: brett, mousy notes, mustiness—we saw it all. That said, some winemakers managed to produce wines that are pure, vibrant, and shining with fruit. Several possibilities explain this. First, some vineyards may have been less affected than others; that’s possible. Second, a tighter focus on vineyard and harvest work that eventually paid off; that’s also possible. And finally, more vigilant and perhaps less dogmatic winemaking processes (including thermovinification, which, in some cases, proved to be an effective solution) ensured clean, flawless results. This last factor is almost certain. Ultimately, if there’s one takeaway from this year, it’s that winemakers had to make do with what Nature was willing to give them. This meant no Nouveau that resembles a cru or a Beaujolais Village to age for ten years. Instead, a return to that light and joyful profile we love and expect when opening a bottle of Beaujolais Nouveau. In the end, this 2024 vintage does bring us joy—provided, of course, that we choose wisely!
Domaine Julien Aucagne Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau Rouge
Fleshy, blackcurrant leaf, then a clear fruit, brightness, and spices. A beautiful bottle. 91
Domaine Emmanuel Fellot Vieilles Vignes Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau Rouge
Lovely nose of small red fruits, fleshy, very pure and fresh, menthol and pepper on the finish. Lovely wine. 91
Château Thivin Vignes d'Ecussol Beaujolais Nouveau Rouge
Blackcurrant leaf, tangy red fruits, clear and energetic, very youthful and almost “chalky.” Nice nouveau. 91
Château de Corcelles Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau Rouge
Lovely consistent wine, violet, full-bodied, clean finish with floral and fruity notes. 90
Maison Thorin Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau Rouge
Lovely bright fruit, full-bodied mouthfeel, relatively concentrated, with earthy and saline notes. Nice nouveau. 90
Domaine Depardon Cuvée Prestige Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau Rouge
Minty nose, blue fruits, fleshy, structured and clean finish. Nice Primeur. 90
Domaine des Nugues Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau Rouge
Pulpy, fleshy, fairly tannic, with licorice on the return. A solid primeur. 90
Domaine des Marrans Beaujolais Nouveau Rouge
Bright, tangy red fruits, lovely texture, cheerful. Pure pleasure. 90
Domaine Chevalier Métrat Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau Rouge
Marshmallow, then floral, juicy, persistent, and very fresh. 89
Domaine Joncy Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau Rouge
Appetizing nose, tangy red fruits, light and full of pep. A real nouveau with a Pinot touch! 89
Domaine Bourbon L'Anti Dprimeur Beaujolais Nouveau Rouge
Wild berry aromas, fleshy and full-bodied mouth, lovely finish filled with fruit and spice. Good primeur. 89
Maison Piron Beaujolais Nouveau Rouge
Wild berries, gentian, fleshy, bright, slightly ethereal, but packed with fruit. 89
Agamy Cuvée Bernard Pivot Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau Rouge
Biting into black fruits with a slight peppery note, balanced mouthfeel, still youthful. It hits the mark. 89
Mommessin Beaujolais Nouveau Rouge
A very nice primeur, clean, appetizing, and filled with red fruits and spices. Mouthwatering finish. 89
Maison Thorins Chez l'Ami Claudius Beaujolais Nouveau Rouge
Lovely red fruits, pulpy and well-balanced acidity, well-proportioned, fragrant finish. On point. 89
Vignerons des Pierres Dorées La Rose Pourpre Beaujolais Nouveau Rouge
Fruity, floral, marshmallow, smooth, coating, tannic, almost beyond primeur but still delightful. 89
Domaine Burnichon Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau Rouge
Dried flowers, burlat cherry, fairly fleshy, juicy, and tannic finish. Muscular. 89
Domaine de Baluce Beaujolais Nouveau Rouge
Playing with blackcurrant leaf and spices in a fleshy and firm style. Charming. 89
Domaine de Champ Fleury Joyeux Beaujolais Beaujolais Nouveau Rouge
Very primeur, marshmallow, morello cherry, well-proportioned, joyful and clean. 89
Agamy Terroirs de Bully Beaujolais Nouveau Rouge
Wild berries, spicy, all fruit and lightness. Pleasant. 89
P. Ferraud et Fils Cuvée d'Autrefois Beaujolais Nouveau Rouge
Supple, black fruits, iris, substantial, tannic finish, frank and fleshy. 89
Domaine de la Revol Beaujolais Nouveau Rouge
Red citrus, slightly fizzy, almost earthy, very gamay, cheerful. Nice primeur. 89
Domaine Jean-Marc Lafont Ephémère Beaujolais Nouveau Rouge
Fleshy, peppery, tannic. A muscular and serious primeur. 88
Château Gaillard Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau Rouge
Discreet, fruity, round, simple. Well-made. Very pleasant. We love it. 88
Château des Pertonnières Beaujolais Nouveau Rouge
Fleshy, slightly strict, returning to wild berries. Serious yet pleasing. 88
Christophe Coquard 69 Beaujolais Nouveau Rouge
Lovely nose, floral with a hint of marshmallow, mellow, simple yet very accurate finish. Light, in the spirit of the vintage. 88
Cave du Château de Chénas Beaujolais Nouveau Rouge
On wild strawberries, light, pulpy, and fruity, pure enjoyment in simplicity. 88
Château de Pizay Beaujolais Nouveau Rouge
Lovely carbonic maceration, spicy, clean, light, fairly smooth but delicious. Just what we expected. 88
Christophe Coquard Clochemerle Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau Rouge
Strawberry, raspberry, smooth and clean mouthfeel. Pleasant. 88
Domaine Jean-Marc Lafont Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau Rouge
A classic primeur, slightly vegetal, clean, fairly linear but straightforward. Pleasant. 88
Maison Piron Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau Rouge
Raspberry, tender, light but smooth, not bad at all. A stylized nouveau. 88
Domaine Longère Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau Rouge
Supple, slightly vegetal, strawberry soup, tangy and airy finish. Simply a pleasant primeur. 88
Domaine Cyril Ansaldi Les Loyses Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau Rouge
Slightly crushed fruits, substantial and tannic, returning to the fruit, very enjoyable. 88
Domaine Romuald Petit Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau Rouge
Simple, supple, tangy, wild berries, clean and flawless. Original, straightforward, and pleasant. So what? 88
Maison Trenel Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau Rouge
Black cherry, vegetal undertone, rustic yet substantial. Good wine. 88
Domaine Mickaël Nesme Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau Rouge
Supple, very appetizing with marshmallow notes, simple and indulgent. 88
Paul-André Brossette Empreinte Beaujolais Nouveau Rouge
Very light, marshmallow, then a vegetal undertone, finishing on tangy fruits. Typical and pleasant. 87
Maison Loron Vini L'Ourson Beaujolais Nouveau Rouge
A hint of blackcurrant and a vegetal note. Tannic finish but still juicy. 87
Domaine Perrusset Beaujolais Nouveau Rouge
Very primeur, supple, redcurrant, slight vegetal undertone, in spirit. Appetizing. 87
Domaine Trenel Beaujolais Nouveau Rouge
Very light, almost fluid, straightforward, wild strawberry, appetizing. Very primeur. 87
Domaine de la Milleranche Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau Rouge
Blueberry, “stemmy,” clean, supple, and tangy. Pleasant. 87
