It’s official! Gigondas has been whitened! Spotless! The Immaculate Conception, finally! No longer living in sin, the winemakers have brought forth the AOP Gigondas blanc!
And what a miracle, given the arduous path to holy recognition from the gods of the INAO (National Institue of Appellations of Origin)! After an initial rejection in 1954 that forced the winemakers to “fall back” on Côtes-du-Rhône blanc, a new attempt was launched in 2011. This effort finally succeeded in 2024, with the 2023 harvest officially recognized as the first vintage. More than a decade of waiting to inscribe “Gigondas” on bottles of white wine! And let’s not forget the specifications—neither too much nor too little! Every detail had to be perfect, as these specifications become the Ten Commandments of AOP Gigondas blanc for eternity (or almost).
Experience in the vineyard matters, as does the ambition of those committed to this production, both winemakers and merchants. On this point, Gigondas hit the mark. In 2018, following encouraging trials in white winemaking, the Gigondas ODG (Organisme de Défense et de Gestion) proposed a modification of the sacred specifications for white wine production: Clairette blanche as the principal grape (at least 70%), vinified alone or blended with traditional Rhône Valley varieties present in Gigondas (Bourboulenc blanc, Clairette rose, Grenache blanc and gris, Marsanne blanche, Piquepoul blanc, or Roussanne). Additionally, two accessory varieties—Viognier and Ugni blanc—may not exceed 5% of the blend. This framework is finely balanced: between a laudable constraint (the magnificent Clairette) and a permissible freedom (the “traditional” varieties), the space for expression is carefully delineated to spark creativity among winemakers. To quote Paul Valéry: “The alexandrine is the clash of will and sentiment against the insensibility of conventions.” Gigondas, like a poem, has found its alexandrine, and it is named Clairette—we’ll return to this.
You might have noticed that the “traditional white varieties of Gigondas” were already cultivated before 2023. While most white grape parcels were uprooted in favor of red grapes following the establishment of the AOP Gigondas for red and rosé in 1971, some estates continued producing whites by “downgrading” them (what an awful term!) to AOP Côtes-du-Rhône. As a result, 16 hectares out of 1,200 hectares are currently dedicated to whites, cultivated by about 30 operators out of 110 in the appellation—more than the production of Gigondas rosé (according to 2019/2020 CVI figures). Add to this a dozen producers ready to plant white grapes in the coming years, and within five years, 15% of operators will vinify Gigondas blancs. A strong momentum is already underway.
As for the terroir, the entire Gigondas vineyard is located within the commune, a rarity worth noting. This positioning directly benefits from the Font des Papes, a small stream whose source lies in the Dentelles de Montmirail’s highlands. This stream has shaped a gently sloping alluvial fan west of the village, composed of limestone debris, marls, and often sandy soils. With this geological mosaic, unified by limestone, the Gigondas vineyard crafts wines known for their length and precision, akin to the chiseled features of the Dentelles. Additionally, the predominant West/Northwest exposure ensures excellent vineyard ventilation and mitigates the summer’s excessive heat, creating ideal conditions for fresh, refined, and aromatic white wines with excellent aging potential. That’s the theory. Now for the practice.
At a tasting organized by the ODG, we had the chance to explore the first official vintage of Gigondas blancs, the 2023 harvest. Around twenty samples were presented—a significant number for a launch—allowing us to form a solid opinion on the wines’ quality and stylistic diversity. Let’s be clear: it’s a success. Producers have maximized Clairette’s potential, experimenting with vinification, aging, and blending to produce wines perfectly attuned to today’s trends. Compared to other Clairette-based wines from the Rhône Valley, Gigondas blanc seems to strike a better balance between concentration and freshness, with better-integrated alcohol. In terms of flavors, Clairette’s characteristic bitterness is subtle, giving way to a more pronounced salinity. Aromatically, notes of anise and white pepper mingle with fresher hints of menthol and flowers, underscoring the wines’ unique profile. Of course, this is an initial impression that must be confirmed over several years, but it’s hard to hide our enthusiasm after this first tasting! One final and important note: the age of the vines. Some estates have the advantage of “starting” with older vineyards, which is particularly significant for Clairette and its adaptability to climate change. Now, let’s move on to the results. Enjoy your discovery!
Olivier Borneuf
Domaine de la Souchière - Clairette - Tank Sample
Pastry-like, fairly subtle nose. Smooth, light attack evolving into a spiced background (fennel). Clean, slightly tangy finish. Good wine. 89
Domaine le Clos des Cazaux - Clairette - Tank Sample
Concentrated nose with candied lemon, a hint of biscuit, and white anise. Dense yet refined attack, very precise, transitioning into citrus. Smooth, tangy, and fairly long finish with a charming buttery note. Great potential. 94-95
Domaine Santa Duc - Clos des Hospices - Clairette, Bourboulenc - Tank Sample
Oaky notes evoke clove and bay leaf, quite pronounced. Sharp, precise, citrusy palate, true to the estate's style, with an explosive, concentrated, and lingering finish, currently showcasing the oaky empyreumatic elements. Worth revisiting post-bottling for a more accurate assessment. 91-92
Château de Saint Cosme - Le Poste - Clairette - Tank Sample
Lovely, ripe, and precise nose with hints of frangipane, white peach, lemon, and mimosa. Precise attack, slightly creamy, well-balanced, and clean, with a juicy, delicate, and refreshing finish. Pleasing and elegant. 92
Château de Saint Cosme - Hominis Fides - Clairette - Tank Sample
Fine and spicy with mimosa and anise. Broad yet airy palate, showcasing finesse and Clairette's characteristic traits. Bright, pure finish with a return to white pepper notes. Beautiful wine. 94
Domaine du Pesquier - Clairette, Piquepoul
Slightly fermentative, reminiscent of marshmallow, evolving smoothly into a friendly style, ending on anise in a simple, easygoing finish. Perfect as an aperitif. 88
Domaine du Terme – Clairette
Floral, with anise and white pepper introducing a precise and dynamic palate. Slightly tight but structured enough to evolve positively. Good wine. 91
Domaine Les Teyssonnières – Clairette
Nose oscillating between lemon and vineyard peach. Soft, delicate palate with a supple, slightly pastry-like finish. Pleasant. 88
Domaine Saint-Damien – Clairette
Substantial bouquet with a hint of smoky oak, lemon, vineyard peach, and anise. Fine, consistent palate with excellent freshness, lingering on pepper and an invigorating salinity. A lovely wine worth revisiting to monitor the integration of the aging process. 91-92
Pierre Amadieu - Romane Machotte - Clairette, Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier
Well-balanced aromas of anise, lemon, and peach. Consistent and well-crafted palate, enriched by Viognier's gourmandise, ending on an aniseed and peppery note. Excellent value for money. 91
Pierre Amadieu - Grand Romane – Clairette
Subtle oakiness with spices and anise flowers introducing a dense, creamy palate that echoes the initial aromas and hints at promising salinity. Lovely wine with good potential. 92
Mas des Flauzières - La Quintessence - Clairette, Roussanne
A delightful wine led by Roussanne: pineapple, peach, and praline enhance a full-bodied, creamy texture that evolves with freshness and smoothness into the finish. “Atypical”? One to watch... 92