The vineyards of Provence and Bandol span across 3 departments: Bouches-du-Rhône, Var, and Alpes-Maritimes. Approaching 30,000 hectares (for comparison, Champagne has 34,200 hectares of vineyards), this vast region remains fragmented into a multitude of microclimates.
Firstly, Bandol, hanging between sea and mountain (the Sainte-Baume massif), where the terraced hillsides benefit from 3,000 hours of sunshine a year, are imbued with sea sprays through a tumultuous geology dominated by limestone. On this mineral foundation, two estates - among others - powerfully express the uniqueness of their vineyard. The first, Domaine de Terrebrune, well known to discerning enthusiasts, is a reference in all three colors of the appellation. The second, Château Salettes, is a hidden gem. Relying on two high-altitude, very rocky and limestone-rich places, La Muscatière and Le Hautes-Salettes, the Bandol here takes on a streamlined appearance without losing its concentration.
The vineyards of Provence, no less chaotic in nature, offer a myriad of climatic and geomorphic facets. Two major geological groups coexist: one is limestone, consisting of ridges sculpted by erosion, located in the north and west, while the other is crystalline, revealing the Maures and Estérel massifs in the south and east. The recent emergence of DGCs (Additional Geographic Designations) rightly illustrates the numerous mesoclimatic variations observed in the region. Take Sainte-Victoire, for instance, where the gem known as Mas de Cadenet is situated. Protected from southern maritime influences by the Auréliens mountains and the Sainte-Baume massif, this estate stands out due to the later ripening of its grapes, which imparts unmatched freshness and precision to its whites and rosés. Let's also mention the renowned Domaine Gavoty, whose reputation for whites and rosés is well-established. Located in the Collines du Var, the "zone of extremes", on the triassic plateau, the estate sets itself apart with its lush, always well-balanced wines. On a more exclusive note, our favorite is Domaine Borrely Martin, located in the Les Mayons commune that overlooks the magnificent national nature reserve of the Plaine des Maures. Here, reds take center stage (one rosé for every four reds) and stand out due to their unparalleled depth and structure in the region. Lastly, one must return to Green Provence, nestled in a valley surrounded by woods, to discover the new Provençal gem, Domaine Alône, founded in 2020 by Pascale and Christian Ott (formerly the director of the Ott estates). Situated at altitudes ranging from 420 to 470 meters, on fine sands, the domain benefits from significant temperature variations (18°C at night to 35°C during the day) to produce wines that are elegant, pure, and concentrated. Now, onto the tasting.
Domaine Alône
Few vintages have been released from this young estate (two so far), but the character and depth of these well-born wines can already be felt in the 2020 and 2021 vintages. It must be mentioned that Christian Ott had already produced 25 vintages before establishing "Alône"...
Domaine Alône - Vin de France - Red 2020: hints of red berries, blood orange, pepper, cinnamon, and sandalwood infuse the palate, reminiscent of some other (very) famous Grenache wines on the sands of Châteauneuf... The texture is as silky as one could wish for, juicy despite its robust tannin structure, delighting with its elegance and depth. This inaugural 2020 vintage is a gem, and it's certain it won't be the last... One to watch closely. LTR 95/100
Domaine Alône - Vin de France - Rosé 2020: delicate and penetrating aromas, both original and complex (lime, strawberry, peach, and spices) permeate a velvety, dense, and balanced body, which coats the palate and stretches in length with more saline and chalky notes. Outstanding for its richness and finesse, this exceptional rosé, crafted by Christian Ott, is no less indicative of the vineyard's exceptional location, nestled deep within Provence Verte. LTR 94/100.
Domaine Gavoty
No fewer than eight generations have succeeded one another at the Campdumy estate ("harvest field" in old Provençal) after it was renamed Domaine Gavoty, named after Philémon Gavoty who acquired the property in 1806. Today, Roselyne and her husband Hervé, are at the helm of the estate, certified organic since 2000. Since the mid-1980s, they have undertaken significant changes that have played a part in the estate's media recognition. The revaluation of the triassic terroir, more precise winemaking combined with a natural sense of wine aesthetics, all this has contributed to the recognition of the Cabasse vineyard! As for the future, Roselyne's son Antoine, an oenologist, has just joined the estate... Here we only mention the Clarendon cuvée series.
Côtes-de-Provence – Clarendon Rosé
Clarendon Rosé 2022: (70% Grenache Noir) fine, fragrant, reductive, unctuous, rich, ending on saline and kumquat, definitely gastronomic, we accumulate adjectives as this concentrated wine already proves to be talkative! LTR 93/100
Clarendon Rosé 2020: (90% Grenache Noir) elegance is the watchword here: aromatic and pure, dense and airy, vinous and fine, contrasts accumulate in a harmonious ensemble that accurately expresses small red fruits and vineyard peach. A real treat. LTR 92/100
Clarendon Rosé 2021: mandarin, strawberry, and mignonette introduce a dense and creamy substance of crystalline purity. In the finish, the sensations first extend to peppery notes and then to mineral flavors that invoke gastronomy. Superb in its pure and graceful expression but also in its potential. LTR 93/100
Clarendon Rosé 2018: (60% Cinsault) a tonic style, but less deep than more recent vintages, returning to an almost chalky saline finish. Reveals its uniqueness earlier, the influence of Cinsault in the structure is perceptible. LTR 91/100
Côtes-de-Provence – Clarendon white
Clarendon white 2022: there's always elegance in the Clarendon white. In 2022, it offers a smoother and more delicate profile. A restrained power gives way to notes of pears, lemon, and almond paste, evolving into a creamy and caressing texture. Delicious for aperitif today, but can also be cellared. LTR 92/100
Clarendon white 2021: grape, peach, and lemon verbena drive a well-balanced texture, lacy, revived by minty notes. Linear, focusing on zest and pepper. Refreshing. A lovely wine. LTR 92/100
Clarendon white 2020: beautiful nose, hydrocarbon, citrus flowers, lemon tree. In the mouth, it's fine with a creamy and velvety start, full and very balanced finish. Excellent biting freshness, highlighting white pepper and hydrocarbon. Evolving. A lovely wine. LTR 93/100
Clarendon white 2019: lavender, lemon, pastry cream, and mineral smoke. The palate starts tender and balanced, unfolding to more aniseed notes, finally revealing its substance in a sleek and peppery finish. While the vintage adds a hint of indulgence, the wine ultimately asserts its freshness and linear style, reminiscent of the domain's older vintages. LTR 94/100
Clarendon white 2015: 7 years in the bottle and we're transported into a unique olfactory universe, oscillating between lavender, lime, and petrol notes. This Rolle is torn between Riesling and Chenin! Dense, juicy, and terribly indulgent, the palate, with its honeyed texture and refreshing marine flavors, finishes with a smoky touch that concludes this gustatory journey. One can't help but be grateful! LTR 95/100
Clarendon white 2014: very well-preserved, saline, linear, emphasizing hydrocarbon, stretched, very delicate, medium-bodied, then fresh vegetation. Cheerful style, the finish is blooming. LTR 92/100
Clarendon white 2013: the lightest of all, almost supple in the mid-palate, but superb harmony, excellent brightness in the finish. Salivating over mint sage. Always a delicate wine. LTR 92/100
Clarendon white 2007: aged, hydrocarbon, honeyed notes. A mouth of very good maintenance, fine, delicate, retro-olfaction on candied lemon, roasted hazelnut, praline, and hazelnut butter. Saline. LTR 93/100
Côtes-de-Provence – Clarendon red
Clarendon red 2020: Elegant palate, very syrah-like (burlat cherry, licorice, olive paste), fairly balanced. Elegant, delicate style, medium-bodied. LTR 91/100
Clarendon red 2019: A deep color, vanilla black fruits, and a hint of black olive, the vintage is dominating the discussions for now. It's best cellared for a few more years. LTR 90/100
Clarendon red 2015: Sun-kissed, with plum, cocoa, a slightly astringent finish, followed by menthol and olive paste. Warm. LTR 90/100
Clarendon red 2004: Elegant, well-proportioned, a very good evolution that showcases the quality of the terroir with its freshness and precise fruit. LTR 91/100
Mas de Cadenet
The estate, owned by the Négrel family since 1813, is located at the foot of the Sainte-Victoire mountain on a south-facing plateau at 250 meters above sea level. It consists of 60 hectares in one piece (converted to organic since 2010) squeezed between the Aurélien mountains and the Sainte-Victoire massif, making this mesoclimate one of the northernmost in the Côtes-de-Provence. The 7th generation of Négrel, represented by Mathieu and Maude, brilliantly upholds the estate's reputation for excellence in a timeless style where finesse and elegance come first. Here we only mention the vintages from the Grande Garde cuvée.
Côtes-de-Provence-Sainte-Victoire - Grande Garde rosé
Grande Garde rosé 2021: (2/3 Grenache Noir, 1/3 Syrah) penetrating, pure, floral nose, slightly ethereal, followed by vineyard peach. Ample attack, full-bodied, with a background of wild strawberries and pink grapefruit, suave and airy finish, very fresh, followed by limestone, saline, and dense. 2021 produced more concentrated berries, and it shows! LTR 93/100
Grande Garde rosé 2017: fine nose with dried flowers, roasted hazelnuts, and a very light pastry note. Creamy palate, still dense, full of fruit, long finish on passion fruit, mango, more built on aging than 2021. Remarkably precise. LTR 96/100
Grande Garde rosé 2011: bright intense salmon color, a hint of sweetness in the fruit, silky smooth touch, then dried flowers, melon, roasted hazelnut, and pink biscuit. Delicate lace lines, very long, ending on red fruit paste, spices, and a hint of salt. Superb. LTR 97/100
Grande Garde rosé 2003: deep copper, with candied orange zest, blond tobacco, and marmalade, reminiscent of Sauternes, yet definitely bone-dry! Very harmonious in flavors and aromas, the finish is more about texture than length: amaretto, followed by a saline and even limestone note. One could easily imagine pairing it with Iberian ham. LTR 94/100
Côtes-de-Provence – Grande Garde White
Grande Garde White 2021: very pale lemon, delicate scents of citrus fruits, fresh pear, almost muscat-like (thanks to a reduction in oak aging in favor of sandstone amphora aging). A tonic and pulpy mouthfeel, very pure, ending on a radiant note, lingering on white pepper and lavender. Superb. LTR 95/100
Grande Garde White 2017: a precise nose, floral (lily of the valley, broom) followed by a smoky mineral hint. Delicate and full palate, almost hydrocarbon-like, ending very delicately on citrus and flowers with a touch of salt and limestone. A superb evolution in a sharp style. LTR 96/100
Grande Garde White 2011: a reductive nose with mimosa, a creamy palate, sweetness in the fruit (candied pear), a lot of smoothness, then a return to a toasted hazelnut note and zest at the end. A more caressing and richer style, beginning to evolve towards a hydrocarbon note. LTR 95/100
Grande Garde White 2003: an idiosyncratic nose that contrasts with a lively, dense, pulpy mouthfeel, on a fresh base of lemongrass, walnut, comté cheese, a slight oxidative veil but a fresh and fruity core. Surprisingly fresh and sustained finish. LTR 94/100
Côtes-de-Provence-Sainte-Victoire – Grande Garde Red
Grande Garde Red 2021: often described as Burgundian for its bouquet and finesse, this Grande Garde confirms its elegant style in the challenging 2021 vintage. Pepper, garrigue, and blood orange infuse a crystalline substance, on a minty base that carries the whole towards aging notes in the process of integration. All of this is in the best taste, always with that characteristic freshness, the signature of the domain. LTR 94/100
Grande Garde Red 2017: marked by black fruits, spices, and tapenade, this 2017 absorbs the heat of the vintage to better release it in a tannic and tonic style perfectly executed. Remarkable in concentration and precision. LTR 94/100
Grande Garde Red 2011: a smoky nose reminiscent of a mature Côtes-de-Nuits, then the markers of northern Syrah, on an underwood base. The smoky, peppery attack gradually reveals excellent freshness, ending on Morello cherry and blood orange. Evidently very fine, very balanced, and persistent, in a word, superb. LTR 97/100
Domaine Borrely Martin
Located in the village of Les Mayons in the Maures massif, Jacques and Claude Martin cultivate just over 6 ha of vineyards. Since 1996, they have been producing their own wines, and notably in the land of rosé, 60 to 80% of their production is dedicated to red wines... And what reds they are – lively, meaty, and aromatic. Here's a little gem, just as Provence knows how to hide them so well! Two magnificent verticals: Carré de Laure, a blend of Mourvèdre and Syrah, and Le Collet, a blend of Black Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre.
Carré de Laure – Côtes-de-Provence red 2013: at 10 years old, this wine has beautiful aromas of garrigue, Zan licorice, and candied fruits, all with the fresh character of wines at just the right maturity. Smooth on the palate and relatively light, reflecting the vintage, it finishes on a spicy note. A great pairing for the last summer barbecues. It's ready to drink now. Good wine. LTR 90/100
Carré de Laure – Côtes-de-Provence red 2011: power and intensity from the nose with notes of fig, "liqueur de vieux garçon" (a type of homemade fruit brandy), and local herbs to uplift it all. Still a gentle touch, though broader and more substantial than the 2013. A suave finish of good length with integrated tannins. Delicious now, but can age further. Elegant. LTR 91/100
Carré de Laure – Côtes-de-Provence red 2006: the color has remarkably little evolution (just like the 2013 and 2011). The aromatic evolution is beautiful, with tertiary notes (menthol, preserved blackcurrant, Russian leather). The palate is silky, harmonious, consistent, and surprisingly delicate and fruity for the year. The tannic, juicy, mentholated finish evolves into noble bitterness. Remarkable for 17 years old! LTR 92/100
Le Collet – Côtes-de-Provence red 2015: fragrant bouquet, Provencal in its herbal whiffs, with precise and sunny fruit without falling into overripeness. Broad and silky on the palate, it is more refined and concentrated than Carré de Laure. Some Bandol-like tendencies, followed by a refined finish, saline and tannic as desired, briefly returning to garrigue. Superb. LTR 93/100
Le Collet – Côtes-de-Provence red 2011: more garrigue and menthol than the 2015, with a tasteful floral hint. The mouthfeel is smooth and rich from aging, wrapping around still-present tannins. The juicy finish is warm and lingers pleasantly on spices and Provencal herbs. LTR 92/100
Le Collet – Côtes-de-Provence red 2007: a fully blossomed bouquet of stewed red berries, mild spices with a hint of menthol, almost oriental, all while being very fresh. The palate is silky, airy, caressing, with melted tannins, gently stretching in length on mouthwatering and very gastronomic saline notes. Beautiful wine. LTR 94/100
Château Salettes
Located on the edge of the Mediterranean, encompassing 40 ha in a single stretch, Château Salettes (named after the place where salt was stored in the Middle Ages) is nestled amidst vineyards arranged in terraces, thus benefiting from the best exposure above the Gulf of Saint-Cyr-les-Lecques. The soil, unique in the region, is a mix of clay, limestone, and crushed rock. Today, this terroir is rejuvenated under the initiative of the owner, Julie Devouassoux, assisted by the talented Arnaud Ferrier, the technical director of the château. Here are the latest vintages heralding the revival of Salettes.
Château Salettes Bandol Rosé
Château Salettes Bandol Rosé 2022: beyond a slight grilled reduction, mandarin and strawberry introduce a delicately creamy texture, evolving towards peppery and aniseed notes in the finish. Refreshing and gastronomic at the same time, this elegant rosé ticks all the boxes. LTR 92/100
Château Salettes Bandol Rosé 2021: a lot of brilliance in the fruit and flavors, this expansive and airy rosé, driven by an excellent acidulous structure, stretches out with more mineral notes. Classy and astonishingly easy to taste. LTR 92/100
Château Salettes Bandol Red
Château Salettes Bandol Red 2022: the fresh and definitively Burgundian style of 2021 combined with the sweetness and delightfulness of 2020. A superb achievement. LTR 94/100
Château Salettes Bandol Red 2021: very fresh, medium-bodied, precise and delicate. Elegance above all, yet not without charm. A lovely wine. LTR 93/100
Château Salettes Bandol Red 2020: sandalwood, wild herbs, and red berries, it exudes the scents of Provence in a Burgundian-inspired setting. The long, mentholated finish beckons for a second glass. The love for wine at Salettes is palpable. LTR 92/100
Château Salettes Bandol Red 2017: with candied fruits (fig, plum) and cocoa, this Bandol has basked in the sun while maintaining excellent freshness. A surprising contrast that lingers pleasantly on the palate with melted tannins. Ready and flavorful. LTR 91/100
Domaine de Terrebrune
Property of Reynald Delille, son of the domain's founder, and Jean d'Arthuys, a media man and entrepreneur passionate about wine, Terrebrune gets its name from the Trias massif, precisely from a limestone gravel in a brown clay that, aided by the cool and moderating flow of the Mistral wind, constitutes the remarkable uniqueness of the vineyard. Add to that a quest for excellence that began in the 1960s and you get some of the most beautiful wines of Provence. One last point, if needed: the three colors - red, white, and rosé - age admirably.
Domaine de Terrebrune Bandol red
Bandol red 2019: Deep and refined aromas (musk, blueberry, sandalwood, green pepper), a concentrated, austere, and profound substance, which gradually unfolds in the finish, carried by chiseled tannins, with high-class sapid notes. Obviously too young, but undeniably pedigreed, this 2019 will be a landmark for the domain's vintages. LTR 98-99/100
Bandol red 2018: In a "light" vintage, Terrebrune still excels with a slender and refined style, with root-like aromas of wild fruits, which stretches lengthily on good-quality mineral flavors. When power is lacking, style is essential. LTR 93/100
Bandol red 2017: Lively, with some figgy notes betraying the vintage, then the terroir takes over, bringing freshness and structure. A beautiful wine without compromise. LTR 94/100
Bandol Red 2015: While the scents of 2015 can be sensed (garrigue, kirsch, and tapenade), one delights in the refined and silky curves that frame a long, tannic, and dynamic mouth. A touch of salinity enlivens the finish, reminding us of the proximity of the sea, superb. LTR 95/100
Bandol red 2011: Shiny garnet, superbly balanced and energetic, complex although still reserved. Still evolving. LTR 97/100
Bandol red 2007: Mourvèdre at its finest. Fine in its design, complex in its aromas (candied cherry, sandalwood, truffle, cistus). Dense and airy mouth, long and covering. Chiseled tannins support a very long saline finish. Great wine. LTR 98/100
Bandol red 2003: Pale in color, fig, thyme, and sandalwood in the aromas, delicate and fresh on the palate. Remarkable for the vintage. LTR 95/100
Domaine de Terrebrune Bandol rosé
Bandol rosé 2022: Seductive without flattery, Burgundian in its definition but Provençal in its aromas, this 2022 wonderfully combines fruit maturity (peach, melon, citrus zest) with aniseed freshness. Concentrated, long, and saline, its potential is significant, although it can be enjoyed right now. LTR 94/100
Bandol rosé 2021: Aromas of melon, citrus, and flowers in a delicate but substantial setting that gains, in a finale full of energy, a very appetizing marine dimension. Refined, mineral, and unmistakably gastronomic. LTR 94/100
Bandol rosé 2020: Remarkable harmony, restrained power, floral and slender. Finesse and delicacy above all else. Superb. LTR 94-95/100
Bandol rosé 2017: Complex, with notes of pastry, clafoutis, and apricot. Dense onset, followed by hints of amaretto and orange blossom, silky texture, with a finish that leans on limestone, salinity, and floral notes. Superb. LTR 95/100
Bandol rosé 2015: Burnt matchstick, citrus, delicate palate, light, elegant, built on noble bitters. Butter on the retro-olfaction, strangely resembling a Champagne Blanc de Noirs of noble origin. LTR 95/100
Domaine de Terrebrune Bandol white
Bandol white 2022: New adjustments in the aging process have brought a welcome volume to the onset without sacrificing the wine's overall energy. Silky, pure, and slightly creamy, the substance is marvelously complex and harmonious, highlighting aromas of anise, vine peach, and grape. The saline and limestone finish stands out in the vintage and showcases the superiority of this terroir in sunny years. LTR 96/100
Bandol white 2021: Freshness in aromas (anise, menthol, white flowers) and freshness in a crystalline, delicate, and chiseled substance: this atypical white wine is a model of refinement in every way. Do not seek volume but the delicacy of sensations. LTR 95/100