Every year, it’s the same refrain. More wines, more work, more fatigue, more uncertainty, all in the effort to somehow extract the usual discoveries, good deals, hidden gems, etc. It’s a journalist’s obsession that, despite all the effort, remains the very essence of our profession!
Each year, producers, winemakers, cooperatives, and merchants work tirelessly to create their vintage, striving, despite the whims of Mother Nature, to do better than the previous year. A great deal of work for a single attempt, with increasingly little room for error—this is what each bottle we receive at the beginning of the year holds. So, if the winemaker suffers, we must suffer too, by tasting all the wines, from all regions, without bias or prejudice, with the same dedication and respect, in order to uncover, year after year, the good wines available on the market, and, when the opportunity arises, to find the hidden gems, the good deals, the treasures, etc.
Not so long ago, the consistency of a domaine was enough to distinguish the elite. Then oenology advanced, and consistency became almost commonplace, to the point where domaines had to take risks to stand out, bringing consistency back to the forefront! Thus, through this selection, we decided to reward those who, in our view, combine initiative and constancy without ever sacrificing one for the other.
Lastly, if you’ve taken the time to read our editorial, you’ll understand that the concept of "good value for money" wines is somewhat challenging for us. However, we too are wine buyers, like you. And when we buy wine, we don’t like to pay “more than we should,” especially when times are tough. Therefore, we decided to base our favorites partly on this principle, “no more than necessary.” This doesn’t necessarily mean “low price”… Happy reading.
Olivier Borneuf
Beaujolais
Alongside the unshakable trio of Janin-Thivin-Desvignes, it seems to us that the Domaine des Marrans has reached a new milestone. The wines are more precise, and the range has gained in consistency. Kudos to Mathieu Mélinand and his brother Camille, who delighted us throughout these tastings. Special mention goes to the refined Chiroubles Aux Côtes and the invigorated Clos du Pavillon in Fleurie.
Let us also mention Cédric Lecareux, at the helm of Domaine Les Capréoles, who has delivered a superb Régnié Sous la Croix 2022, with a more balanced oak, and Diaclase 2022, among the finest wines of the vintage. Congratulations to him.
Flying under the radar, Domaine de Vernus surprised the entire team with a superior quality Grand Cras 2021 for the vintage. This young estate, led by the duo Frédéric Jametton and Guillaume Rouget (from the eponymous Burgundy estate), is definitely one to watch.
Bordeaux
Of course, there are our Primeurs favorites (available in our dossier HERE). Believe us, there are real deals to be found at all price points (we bought some). 2023 is an excellent vintage, with fresh wines that are a true pleasure to taste.
Among our 2024 selections, we have a soft spot for Clos Louie in Castillon-Côtes-de-Bordeaux. Situated on 5 hectares and farmed biodynamically, with a large proportion of old vines (including 80 ares of pre-phylloxera Cabernet, Merlot, and Malbec planted in a field blend), Pascal and Sophie Lucin-Douteau produce elegant and refined wines, including a superb 2021 that has extracted the best from this underrated vintage.
Another name to follow is Domaine Haut-Ventenac, which stood out both in Primeurs and in bottle-ready wines. Established in 2019 by Grégoire Clerc and Rémi Bucherie, two friends who share a passion for wine, this estate has been certified organic and biodynamic since 2023. The vineyard is located on two terroirs: the clay plateau of Tayac in the heart of the small Francs-Côtes-de-Bordeaux appellation, and the clay-limestone plateau of Saint-Philippe d'Aiguille in Castillon-Côtes-de-Bordeaux. Their wines are consistently excellent and contemporary, as is their packaging.
Finally, there’s Château Haut-Goujon, a hidden gem of Montagne-Saint-Emilion. Discreet, hardworking, and an excellent winemaker, Mickaël Garde produces a varied range of high-quality wines. From appellation wines to more intimate cuvées (including a magnificent 100% Petit Verdot), everything is highly recommended and on trend. It’s a great deal (we’re buying it for ourselves!). Stop by the estate, and you’ll be warmly welcomed.
Burgundy
“Not more expensive than it should be,” as we said in the introduction. Here we are! Burgundy! Well, the favorites are plentiful. From Chablis to Mâconnais, passing through the Côte d’Or, these estates remind us that it is possible to enjoy oneself without breaking the bank, even in renowned appellations.
In this regard, it is difficult to find a better deal than Domaine Claude et Catherine Maréchal. Everything is good, straightforward, serious, and definitively Burgundian. The wines express themselves with typicity and depth, offering great aging potential in the best crus. At a time when “infusions” and “semi-carbonic macerations” are in vogue to supposedly express the “finesse” of Pinot (where we should rather say “lightness” without the prices lightening accordingly), the wines of Maréchal have something comforting about them.
In the same vein, in the heart of Mâconnais, in the village of Leynes, you’ll find the friendly Pacaud brothers, Sébastien and Julien. Working 13 hectares around Notre Dame de Chasselas, the brothers produce small gems in AOC Saint-Véran, Pouilly-Loché, and Pouilly-Fuissé. In a style marked by purity and delicacy, they craft remarkably high-quality wines, from entry-level offerings to Premiers Crus. Naturally, we are customers.
Between these two reliable names, there is a third, located indeed between the Côte d’Or and Mâconnais: the well-known Château de Chamilly. Under the management of the Desfontaines brothers, Xavier and Arnaud, along with their mother Véronique, this 32-hectare estate, spread across AOCs Bourgogne, Mercurey, Montagny, and Bouzeron, has been in organic conversion since 2021 and offers a flawless range, with a luminous and refined style, and aging techniques that have greatly improved in recent years. The icing on the cake is that the Desfontaines’ ethical thinking extends to wine distribution, favoring the national market (70% of sales). We don’t just like it—we love it.
Finally, in the far north, in Chablis, Château de Viviers was taken over in 2019 by Arnould and Isabelle Lefébure. For 35 years, this family estate had been leased and, frankly, in poor condition. In just five years, the Lefébure couple has revived the spirit of this château, which boasts eight centuries of history. The vineyard, organically and biodynamically farmed since 2019, is located on the highest terroirs of the appellation. No Petit Chablis here, but Chablis on the famous Kimmeridgian marls and Cretaceous limestones, which give these wines a deceptive elegance, with the appearance of Premier Crus, in a refined, delicate, and deceptively fragile style.
Champagne
It is difficult to make a choice given the abundance of excellent bottles from this region—which explains, in part, its extraordinary success.
Among the houses that innovate intelligently while maintaining high-quality standards, we highlight Maison Louis Roederer and Maison Billecart-Salmon. The former has successfully introduced a “terroir” dimension to its cuvées without sacrificing a certain universality of taste essential for an international brand. The latter, with its purity of style, goes far in pushing the boundaries, contrasting with an internationalized approach. For these two houses, the NV Brut (Brut Sans Année), respectively named Collection 244 and Brut Réserve, are perfect ambassadors.
Among vignerons, we admire the work of Vincent and Raphaël Bérêche, who are ever-enterprising without compromising an inch on quality. This is evidenced by two extremes: a remarkable Brut Réserve at a reasonable price and some of the finest single-vineyard cuvées in Champagne. In the same spirit, Rodolphe Péters of Champagne Pierre Péters. His wines have gained depth and natural expression, again with exceptional extremes (e.g., Cuvée de Réserve and Les Chétillons). We also salute the consistent quality of Champagne Eric Rodez. Always taking the initiative but with a more refined and contemporary style (lower dosages), this house offers a remarkably consistent range. Finally, we applaud the progress made by the Paillard brothers in Bouzy and Jean-Paul Hébrart in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ: both exhibit quality and consistency, as evidenced by the excellent Maillerettes for the former and the brand-new Clos de Léon produced in Dizy by the latter.
It would be remiss not to mention Fabrice Pouillon, also based in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, whose risks often pay off. David Pehu in Verzenay follows in this vein, producing exceptional cuvées (e.g., Les Perthois 2015) while contemplating the future of agroforestry and organic cultivation. Alexandre Chartogne is always ahead of the curve, with a superior aesthetic sense in the creation of his wines. Then there are the stalwarts, tireless entrepreneurs whom we almost forget because they’ve become such indomitable references: Pierre and Sophie Larmandier (Champagne Larmandier-Bernier) alongside Ambroise and Pascal Agrapart (Champagne Pascal Agrapart). Add to that Richard and Karine Fouquet (Champagne Guiborat) and Jean-Marc Sélèque (Champagne Sélèque). We feel like continuing with Delphine Boulard (Champagne Boulard), Jean-Baptiste Geoffroy (Champagne Geoffroy), Jérôme Dehours (Champagne Dehours), and Nicolas Maillart (Champagne Maillart). And finally, the younger generation: our favorite Fabien Cazé (Champagne Cazé-Thibaut), then brandnew Champagne Brice and Marie Copinet (Champagne Copinet), whose impressive journey truly deserves recognition. As you can see, it’s hard to stop, and we certainly missed a few.
Jura
For a first foray into this region, we were fortunate to experience wines of such a high standard. Perhaps it’s the Tulipe Rouge’s demand or the region’s genuine rise in quality, or a bit of both.
Two references, in a luminous and audacious style: Domaine Courbet, led by the friendly trail-running winemaker Damien Courbet. We particularly noted the excellent Violette cuvée in red and the superb Parcellaire Château-Chalon “Sous Roche”. Then there’s Domaine Grand under the guidance of the equally affable Emmanuel and Nathalie Grand, whose delicate, gentle style is a delight for the palate.
For a more classic yet precise and dynamic style, Domaine Berthet-Bondet offers a consistent and finely crafted range. From Côtes-du-Jura to Château-Chalon, everything is highly recommended.
Languedoc
Everyone knows that this region is brimming with good, even excellent wines. However, not everyone agrees on what is considered good or excellent. As for us, we made our decision long ago in favor of fresh, vibrant wines with a distinctive ardor in their aromas and flavors that characterizes the region.
In this respect, Clos du Serre is a clear choice. Created in 2006 by Béatrice and Sébastien Fillon in the heart of Terrasses du Larzac, this young estate quickly established itself with a chiseled, structured style, free from oak influence. The entire range, both red and white, is excellent, with that freshness we like to call “mineral.” A true favorite.
We have almost a soft spot for Domaine Ollier-Taillefer, located in Faugères. The contagious smiles of Luc and Françoise Ollier surely have something to do with it… Not to mention the wines: they never disappoint and are always up-to-date. Brimming with sun-soaked generosity, yet always balanced and precise. As wine enthusiasts, we feel respected because everything is just right, including the prices.
Another estate that never disappoints is Les Combes Cachées, in the Minervois. Once again, no false notes—the line is tight, precise, without hardening the wines, which retain both flesh and richness. It’s worth noting that this estate is still very young! Created ex nihilo by three passionate friends—Xavier, a cereal farmer, Michel, a globe-trotting geographer, and François, an agronomist and entrepreneur—their first wine was produced in 2015! The vines (15 hectares, 12 of which were in production in 2022), certified organic since 2018, are cultivated on the terroirs of La Livinière, Siran, and Cesseras, between 100 and 400 meters in altitude on the foothills of the Montagne Noire. Truly, go see it. It’s magnificent.
Between the Pont du Diable and Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert is nestled Domaine Mas Conscience. Taken over in 2020 by Roman Kocholl and Audrey Bonnet-Koenig (who, among other experiences, worked at the oenology lab of Denis Dubourdieu and in Franschhoek, South Africa), this young estate produces wines bursting with fruit and natural structure. Don’t be mistaken; it’s well-framed and serious, with conscientiously set prices.
Provence
We could have mentioned the stalwarts that we feature in every tasting—Mas de Cadenet in Sainte-Victoire, Château Pradeaux and Domaine Le Galantin in Bandol, Domaine Gavoty in Provence Verte, or Borrely-Martin on the heights of the Mayons. We could have, because they were present at our tastings, just as they are every year. But we preferred to take you to the Cengle Plateau, at the foot of Montagne Sainte-Victoire, 500 meters above sea level. This is where Sophie and Carl Mestdagh have been running the Domaine des Masques since 2003. Supported by Yves Cuilleron (Domaine Cuilleron) and Yannick Burles, a local winemaker and skilled taster, the Mestdagh couple has succeeded in making this estate one of the references in Provence. Their wine range is broad, yet well thought out. No less than six different lines to satisfy every moment and desire, with, of course, top-tier Syrahs, but also, and especially, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Viognier that would make specialists blush with envy!
Well-known among discerning wine lovers, the discreet Domaine Richeaume is making a strong comeback. Located in the village of Puyloubier, at the foot of Montagne Sainte-Victoire (yes, “her” again…), it is now managed by Sylvain Hoesch, son of Henning Hoesch, who bought the 65-hectare property in 1972. Organic from the beginning and biodynamic since 2018, this estate excels in the art of barrel or dolium aging to bring naturalness and body to a material that is both fiery and delicate at the same time. A must-see or re-discover.
Rhône Valley
The vastness of the region forces us to make choices! Let’s start with Châteauneuf-du-Pape. We were excited, as usual, but not too surprised. The usual suspects were present: Janasse, Beaurenard, André Brunel, Mont Olivet, Barroche, Saint-Préfert, Saint-Antonin, Giraud, and so on. We probably missed a few. Let’s highlight the excellent work from Domaine Saint-Préfert and Domaine de la Janasse, where the demanding terroirs require “a little more” effort than elsewhere.
In terms of good deals, Domaine Fayolle in Crozes-Hermitage is a standout. The wines have never been better. And for good reason: produced in Gervans on the coolest, granite-dominant terroirs of the appellation, Laurent Fayolle's wines combine structure and ripeness, freshness and depth. Add to that the caution of a vigneron who was born an oenologist, and you have the perfect recipe for pure, charming wines. Try Clos des Cornirets 2019, and you’ll understand.
Further south, let’s mention Clos des Cazaux in Gigondas, both in red and, now, in white. We’ll talk more about this new AOP Gigondas blanc in a future article.
In Camargue, at Costières-de-Nîmes, we must mention Château Beaubois. Managed by Fanny and François Boyer, this estate, located on the “right” side of the appellation, has never stopped innovating, offering a complete range that is regularly awarded in all three colors.
Finally, the young up-and-comer: Domaine Beauvence in Beaumont-de-Pertuis, southeast of the Luberon massif. After a career in finance, Frank Loubaresse, accompanied by his wife, acquired the 30-hectare estate in 2018. In just a few years, this young estate, mindful of environmental issues (the wines are made in a bioclimatic cellar), has reached a level of quality that places it among the frontrunners in Luberon.
Roussillon
We will return to this region in more detail with an article on vins doux naturels. In the meantime, we must mention the excellent Domaine Augustin, managed by Augustin Parcé (from the same Parcé family behind Domaine de la Préceptorie and Domaine de la Rectorie). Since 2014, this estate has been producing wines that reflect the uncompromising, profound character of the winemakers. Schist and steep slopes—this is the price to pay for distinctive grapes that produce distinctive wines. A true favorite, and it feels like an obvious choice for both the wines and the estate.
Southwest
This region is showing remarkable vitality, especially considering the recent climate challenges. Let’s start with the exceptional Château du Cèdre, which delights us with its incomparable Cuvée Charly. Also in the Lot, Domaine Belmont, already acclaimed for its whites, is now shining with beautiful reds. Further north, Domaine des Rouillats is developing a consistent and well-crafted range across three designations (Périgord, Montravel, and Vin de France). In Fronton, the renowned Domaine Le Roc pays homage to the Négrette grape with its Haut du Bois. Not to forget Nicholas Smith, the former English rock drummer who became a winemaker in Fronton and now heads Domaine Bois de Devès since 2020—excellent work! In Gaillac, we bow to the unwavering consistency of Domaine Rotier, with excellence in all three colors and in sweet wines, without forgetting the very reasonable prices.
Finally, two recent ventures deserve mention. First, Château La Ressaudie in Montravel. This 19th-century estate, kept within the Rebeyrolle family for five generations, was taken over in January 2020 by two passionate wine lovers, Frank and Marie Magiera. On 14.5 hectares of clay-limestone soils, traditional grape varieties and, since 2021, Alvarinho are producing energetic, ambitious, and, of course, tasteful wines.
Last but not least, Domaine Les Orchidées Sauvages, created in 2016 in Montmurat, at 380 meters above sea level in the extreme southwest of Cantal. On only four hectares, organically farmed, Sébastien Lavaurs produces joyful, energetic wines, made from hybrid varieties like Villard Noir, Chambourcin, and Seibel (or Plantet).
Loire Valley
This vast territory is brimming with fine estates. But if we stick to our selection criteria, as defined in the introduction, we immediately think of Domaine Ménard-Gaborit when heading out from the Atlantic. A true favorite for 2024, this estate takes you on a journey to Muscadet country with original, stylish, and tasteful cuvées. From the stylistic exercise Contre-Courant to the delicious Clos Cormerais, and through the crus (Gorges, Monnières-Saint-Fiacre, Le Pallet), everything is good—ready to drink or to age, depending on your preference. The young François Ménard has talent, and it shows in the wines.
Further east, in Anjou, Emmanuel Ogereau defies gravity. For a former high-level scientist, the promise is real: crystalline Chenin Blancs, with just the right depth and tension. Everything is perfectly tuned, precise, without becoming rigid—on the contrary, it’s airy and goes down with delightful ease. Special mention to Clos le Grand Beaupréau 2022. A real favorite.
Finally, in Centre-Loire, we didn’t know Domaine Cordaillat (it happens). This is exactly the kind of estate we love discovering because nothing suggests the outcome, except good grapes, good taste, and, in the end, simply good wine. The prices? They’re entirely fair, of course.