La Tulipe Rouge - What exactly are we celebrating?
Michel Blanc - We're celebrating a little early, since the actual date is October 4, the 100th anniversary of the creation of the winegrowers' union, founded in 1923 by a group of winegrowers, including Mister Avril and Mister Armenier (whose descendants are still winegrowers in the appellation), led by Baron Pierre Leroy de Boiseaumarie, who by marriage was head of Château Fortia. He was at the origin of the AOCs based on the 1919 law, which did not satisfy the Châteauneuf-du-Pape winegrowers because, in their view, judicial delimitation of the appellation was a necessary but not sufficient condition to protect the name. It was within the syndicate that the modern idea of an AOC was born, i.e. a territorial delimitation and conditions of production. This led to the creation of the INAO and the first appellations in 1936, including Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Over and above the symbolic date of 100 years, this is what we're celebrating.
LTR - Châteauneuf-du-Pape seems to benefit from more flexible specifications than others, particularly with regard to grape varieties.
MB - Yes and no, it's both more liberal and more restrictive. On many points, it's stricter. For example, it was Châteauneuf-du-Pape that introduced the notion of a maximum rate of missing vines per parcel in the early 1990s, which has since been adopted by all vineyards in France. On some others, it is more flexible. The color intensity of red wines, for example, is linked to the greater freedom we have acquired in terms of grape varieties. When we switched from the "appellation decree" system to the "specifications" system at the end of the 2000s, the INAO asked us, as it did all AOCs, to define minor and major grape varieties, with maximum and minimum blend percentages. This was categorically refused by the appellation's winegrowers. The winegrowers didn't give in, and the INAO listened to our arguments. It's been like this since 1936, there's never been any abuse, so there's no reason to regulate it.
LTR - Is it an important freedom?
MB - It's a way for everyone to express what they want to express about Châteauneuf-du-Pape and contribute to the diversity of styles in the appellation. It allows us to introduce flexibility, to adapt grape varieties and rootstocks to soil types and exposure, to take account of climate change and also, let's not deny it, of changing consumer tastes. In 20 years' time, grape varieties will be different from today's, just as today's grape varieties are no longer those of the 1950s or the pre-phylloxera period. It's a vine population on the move, not following fashions but the constraints of an era. Others envy us this freedom, but we fought for it.
LTR - And a freedom that you maintain?
MB - Of course, it's precious, it's an asset. For the past 4 years, we've been working on a grape variety conservatory, listing and identifying old varieties on the oldest plots. We are studying them from a health and quality point of view, so that tomorrow we can grow the most interesting ones and offer winegrowers the chance to replant them. The possibility of replanting as many vacarèse, counoise, cinsault and muscardin varieties as we like is part of the fight we have waged to have complete freedom over grape varieties. More generally, biodiversity is really a major project for us, shared by the whole production chain, including the négociants. A large percentage of our vineyards are organic, or in conversion, while many others don't have the label, but work in the same spirit, without the use of synthetic chemicals. Thanks to an idea put forward by young winegrowers, we are also working on planting 42 km of hedges in the vineyard. Preserving biodiversity also means defending our Châteauneuf-du-Pape hillside, which is located on a strategic axis and is the stuff of dreams for regional investors...
LTR - The AOC is sometimes perceived as a straitjacket that's slow to loosen, but in Châteauneuf it seems to be more of a driving force.
MB - I think it's a tool that can be modern. Incidentally, we don't speak of "specifications" but rather, to use an expression dear to our Comté cheese friends with whom we collaborate, "specifications of opportunity". Because it allows winemakers to best express what they have to say through their grape varieties and terroirs. A new project is the future of white wine at Châteauneuf. Collectively, we think it would be a good idea to increase the percentage of white grape varieties. To produce a little more white wine, but also, since the specifications allow us to co-ferment (red and white grape varieties), to bring more natural acidity and fruitiness to our reds, that refreshing style that wine lovers may be looking for tomorrow.
LTR - Châteauneuf is both an established, prestigious name with a long history, and a dynamic, modern AOC. What does the syndicat contribute to this modernity?
MB - Above all, it's a collective affair, i.e. the syndicate, the ODG, the young winemakers, and also the role of women, who have chaired the ODG more often than men. We also acquired autonomy early on, giving us freedom of thought and action. Châteauneuf also had a complicated political history in the past, but all that has been fixed and is behind us; we have a big collective association that works well. Today, everyone pulls in the same direction, and that's a strength.
LTR - What can we wish for Châteauneuf in the next 50 years?
MB - For it to remain as it is, a green lung in the middle of the lower Rhône valley, with the same wonderful diversity of grape varieties and wine styles. We'd like French consumers to get back in touch with Châteauneuf, since the national market only represents 25% to 30% of our sales. One often says that Châteauneuf-du-Pape is traditionally a wine "for the festive season", i.e. reserved for a few occasions a year. But we are convinced that Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a wine for all festive occasions. With Grenache, we're lucky to have wines that are accessible and very versatile, that can be fruit-forward when young or let for ageing in the cellar. There are few appellations where you can drink a great vintage almost after one year, but also 10, 15, 30 years later. It's a wine that fits in with modern consumer habits.
We also hope to welcome more people to the area by developing sustainable tourism. We're located at the heart of the "via Rhôna", which links Geneva to Sète, and perhaps Spain and Italy in the future via a network of greenways. We'll be able to offer bicycle tourism throughout the Vaucluse region, as well as river tourism. The region is blessed with UNESCO-listed monuments, unspoilt environments and the river, so there are plenty of entry points for developing green and respectful tourism, and attracting a public that isn't necessarily a wine lover.