LTR - How is Bandol doing?
Olivier Colombano - We are not affiliated with the Provence trade association, we have no economic data, but the appellation is doing well. Our indicator is the dynamism of the appellation with a renewal of generations, young winemakers setting up, a general desire to progress, to move forward. This bodes well. The production areas also increase each year, even if volumes are heavily dependent on the climate. This meant that last year we had one of our smallest harvests due to weather conditions.
LTR - Today, Bandol consists of 75% rosé, 20% red, and 5% white wines. Should we expect a rebalancing or a different dynamic?
OC - I would say this trend is stable. I've been working for the appellation for fifteen years, and we've always been around 70-75% rosés. For us, it's essential to have all three colors because they cover different consumption profiles and consumer types. Connoisseurs come to us through the reds, while new consumers more readily choose the dominant color, rosé. These structured, mouth-filling rosés can be an introduction to the reds. As for whites, production is slightly increasing every year since it's currently trending. This color also offers winemakers a bit more flexibility regarding specifications.
LTR - Speaking of the specifications, especially for reds, do they offer enough flexibility in the current global warming context?
OC - We have a rather restrictive set of specifications, but that's also its strength. Now, indeed, given the climatic context, we asked the INAO if we could reduce our mandatory oak-aging period (currently eighteen months) to twelve months. We would keep the 18 months, which are necessary for the mourvèdre grape to flourish and settle, but limit the time spent in wood to 12 months.
LTR - Bandol's strength also lies in its flagship grape variety, mourvèdre, which contributes to the strong character of these wines. How does it respond to climate issues?
OC - I don't know if the old-timers were visionary, but today this grape variety performs very well and fully satisfies us. It's a late variety that reacts well to the current climate change, with these high temperatures and decreasing rainfall. We achieve optimal ripeness while maintaining balance. Bandol has always produced potent wines, but their warmth is entirely integrated and digested by the structure of our wines, between tannins, for reds, and acidity. We're also fortunate to have what we call "soft bitters," especially in our rosés, which bring a certain freshness at the finish.
LTR - The grape's character isn't diluted in Bandol's rosés, which display a real personality and a true aging capacity.
OC - We call them "long-lasting rosés." "lasting" over time, because indeed they taste great the following spring, in the fall, and for three years, they are really at full tasting capacity. For enthusiasts, it's sometimes fascinating to follow their longer-term evolution, with this aromatic profile evolving towards apricot and quince, achieving interesting balances.
LTR - Are you working on introducing other grape varieties?
OC - Overall, we are very satisfied with the grape varieties, but we must be vigilant and build the viticulture of tomorrow. We have set up a water monitoring study for the appellation. Everything predicted for 2050 has come much faster, with these significant temperature increases and rainfall decreases. We're already in the thick of it, and some varieties react more than others. So, we asked the INAO (French wine organization) for the introduction of new varieties to experiment on a large scale. We're looking at old endemic varieties that were once too late, like mourvaison, a cousin of mourvèdre, or counoise. We're also interested in other varieties from the deep south, like white carignan, terret blanc, or carignan, which are interesting, at least on paper, as they can bring freshness and structure. There are also foreign grape varieties that offer this profile, such as xinomavro, calabrese, and agiorgitico for reds, or assyrtico for whites.
LTR - In general, how does the appellation confront the challenge of climate change and the water issue?
OC - We have set up a vineyard monitoring study with weather station networks and probes to capture what's happening in the air and soil. In particular, the probe network installed on 17 plots informs us about how soils capture and manage water. The data we collect allow us to characterize vintages and study vine reactions on qualitative and quantitative criteria. The idea is to determine when the vine is stressed, under what conditions, and at what threshold, to seek suitable solutions. Other paths include irrigation, but that's a short-term solution. Then there's the long-term vision with the introduction of new grape varieties, significant work on rootstocks, and thinking about the plot/variety association, meaning planting the right grape in the right place, for instance, by playing with exposures. It's becoming real precision viticulture. Our goal is to provide this technical monitoring everywhere and feed winemakers' perceptions with scientific data that allows them to adapt to their terroir's characteristics.
Interview conducted by Sébastien Durand-Viel - LTR.