LTR - A powerful image, a rosé that is no longer a trend but established in the landscape and whose value is increasing, big names investing, a touch of glamour, exports that are doing well… Can we talk about a golden age for Provence?
Brice Eymard - If we take a lot of perspective and think long-term, yes, because we have been experiencing a prosperous viticultural period for the last 10 years. However, what is dangerous with this idea of a golden age is thinking that everything is done and won because despite this success, there are still many topics and especially challenges. We must keep a cool head!
LTR - We are witnessing an upgrade in rosés, a diversification of styles. There is also talk of a Champagne-like model for the region…
BE - Naturally, we talk a lot about Champagne for Provence because quite a few people from Champagne have come to the region. But they arrive in a region that has its history and its players. Predicting the future is risky, but we bet on a model that will be Provençal. On one side, the development of brands that bring their marketing know-how, their international experience, and on the other our historical estates and our vineyard fabric that undoubtedly benefit from their contribution. Our idea is to walk on two legs: brands on one side, estates and signatures on the other, with the desire to maintain and expand a diversity of rosé styles around the Provençal identity.
As for the upgrade, the premiumization is undeniable. Can we become a luxury wine? I'm not sure it's desirable because the image of rosé is precisely its accessibility and its laid-back nature. Betting on luxury would be going too far compared to what we advocate and what we have been for years. But of course, there are more and more exceptional cuvées that will be in niches. We tend towards that; we feel it a lot in the vineyard, and it is also a market demand. We are in a context of growing consumption of rosé wine worldwide, tastes are becoming more sophisticated, and people want to try different things.
LTR - A recent evolution is the emergence of aged cuvées, gastronomic wines, and wines meant for long-term storage. Is this a real trend?
BE - Yes, we see more of it. It's not entirely new because some have been doing it for a long time, but it's expanding. Of course, we are working on gastronomic rosés, but this move upmarket concerns all families of rosés. We are doing fundamental work on so-called light rosés, very fine, easy to drink. This involves high precision and adjustments in acidity levels, aromas, balances, with subtle work in terms of blends or winemaking. It's a universe that is more complex to explain because the taste world it refers to is different from the classic codes we use to describe wines. We talk about sensations in the mouth, balance, texture, freshness. It's not obvious, and it's an ongoing project. How do we describe wine quality? How to differentiate them? How do we intelligently account for this world of subtle nuances? We don't have all the codes, but we are writing them, and it's fascinating work.
LTR - This move upmarket is also the result of a considerable technical improvement, equipment, knowledge, and also the means available to producers. A virtuous circle has been established.
BE - Yes, obviously the revenues generated by our wines, which sell well, give a real investment capacity, both in the cellar and in the vineyard where there is a strong dynamic underway with a high renewal rate, with new grape varieties arriving and being tested, and all the ongoing agro-environmental measures. And in the cellars too, regarding equipment, resources, people. When you have this investment capacity, you can maintain a tool and continuously evolve things.
LTR - Isn't there a danger in relying solely on rosé?
BE - We must bear it in mind, but when we take stock of our strengths and weaknesses, it's all relative. We need to capitalize on what's working today and on the potential for growth, which is real in the short to medium term, rather than envisioning hypothetical scenarios. It would be self-sabotage, even if we must remain aware and conscious of this dependency. We will address it when the time comes, but we're not there yet, especially since rosé is still under-consumed globally and the trend is on the rise. We only represent between 4 to 6% of global production, maybe even less tomorrow if production keeps increasing. We are a "brand image" leader, not a volume leader. Even if rosé saw a decline, our premium positioning would protect us. In the short to medium term, we're focusing on rosé because it holds potential, it's our strength, we have a story to tell and expertise to offer. In the long run, we've started working on whites.
LTR - Speaking of whites, it's a real trend today in Provence as elsewhere. How does the region position itself?
BE - There's a circumstantial momentum because there's a shortage of white wines globally. So, we need to stay grounded and step back: are we being asked for whites because they're in short supply, or is there a genuine enthusiasm for whites from Provence? But we do see a significant shift concerning us: plantations are growing, and for the first time, the white grape harvest has surpassed reds. The profile of our whites, which is quite close to that of the rosés, and which emphasizes zing and freshness, is appreciated and fits the current trend well. We have a significant technical and economic advantage because our white grape varieties, and the rolle (vermentino) in particular, can also be used in the vinification of rosés. We can alternate between the two colors without needing to completely revamp our grape varieties, as might be the case elsewhere. The union has undertaken a comprehensive study on whites, assessing the volume, wine profile, distribution channels, evolution of the specifications, etc. We are projecting in the medium to long term.
LTR - You have a rather flexible set of rules, which in particular allows you to include whites in your rosés.
BE - We need to be precise: we can vinify white grapes with red grapes, but we cannot mix white wines with red wines! But yes, it's a real strength, and indeed the specifications were designed to allow our winemakers some leeway in order to optimize wine quality, when others have remained very anchored in tradition. And at some point, that becomes a limitation. More broadly, there's a general trend in the unions and at the INAO (French wine organization) to include an experimental part that allows for considering evolutions. Given climate change, this has become necessary. This is already an integrated culture in Provence.
LTR - We started with a mainly local and seasonal market and arrived, in a short time, at an export rate of more than 40%. Is the goal to continue increasing exports?
BE - Firstly, exporting allows us to move upmarket, which is more challenging in the French market, or in nearby Europe. Some markets, such as the United States, are willing to pay more, but they have quality requirements that push forward the vineyard. For a domain, it's not so easy to break into exports, but once it does, there's a real momentum.
And exporting allows for market diversification, which is essential when one is exposed to strong "weather sensitivity", which is the case for our wines. It's an advantage because we're associated with the sun, holidays, and it's extremely positive in terms of consumption imagery, but as soon as the weather is bad, it becomes more complicated. And when you're in overly concentrated markets, you can end up with unsold wines. This diversification prevents that; it's always sunny somewhere!
In France, we're in a situation of decreasing consumption, with strong and continuous attacks on alcohols and wines. Changes in consumption habits and public or association policies mean that, unfortunately, we are on this downward slope. Today's France is less welcoming for wines.
LTR - How are you addressing the problems of global warming, especially the scarcity of water?
BE - We are already addressing it by staying open to all solutions. We can't close any doors, neither in the name of tradition nor ideology. We can no longer afford such luxury. Regarding water, we have several ongoing initiatives: we have the advantage of being able to irrigate from the Canal de Provence, which doesn't mean we will never have problems, but it allows us not to rely solely on groundwater, which is, as elsewhere, at its lowest. We have this infrastructure, but the entire vineyard is not equipped with irrigation equipment. This implementation needs support while training in best practices, i.e. irrigating when necessary, appropriately, and not excessively. Another lever is cultural practices that reduce water needs, through grassing strategies, soil work, and focusing on the vine's root system. Vine management is another way to reduce drought sensitivity.
The other issue is adapting the grape varieties with many ongoing projects. We're working on new grape varieties, particularly a Rolle-Cinsault cross. When these works were launched a decade ago, it was in response to the issue of inputs; now, we need to integrate other parameters, including drought resistance, while maintaining a wine profile consistent with the Provençal style. These are long-term studies with lab work, experimental phases, and production testing. We're also experimenting with new resistant grape varieties, the Vifa, our old local grape varieties, and some Greek varieties.
We should discuss ongoing efforts regarding biodiversity and decarbonization: bottles, fossil fuels, and all avenues that limit our impact. It's a long-term effort, but we're on track. Like everyone else, there's an evident climate and environmental change to urgently address, and there's also a strategic challenge. Given our positioning, our leadership image, which sells twice as much as everyone else, we must also set an example. Even more so for exports, targeting young consumers who are extremely demanding on these issues.
LTR - Any idea what Provence will look like in 50 years?
BE - Let's take an optimistic scenario: we will have managed to maintain our production potential, perhaps by reorganizing the territory, maybe with a different land division, and perhaps with a larger portion of whites. And also maintain a healthy diversity in the vineyard between major brands and independent estates. As for the vineyard fabric, it has cultural, historical significance; it holds the identity, guarantees style diversity, and is a source of energy and creativity.
Interview conducted by Sébastien Durand-Viel - LTR